I’d done all my detailed planning on how to attack this section of Devon, when while just waking I had the thought that I hadn’t considered splitting my rail ticket. This means finding an intermediate station where it is cheaper to buy two tickets to. As it turns out splitting my ticket to Axminster at Crewekerne saves me a few pounds, and should let me do this two day trip under my current average daily cost of £32 (for transport and accomodation). Although I have elected to camp. I’ve managed to pack pretty light and fitted everything into my small day rucksack. Another last minute thought, was to pack a coat. Not that I thought it would rain (in the middle of a heatwave in the UK), but I haven’t brought a sleeping bag and a bit extra warmth for sleeping might be useful. I’ve packed my, now trusty, tarp (3x3m), bivvy bag and air mattress, so I think I will be fine. My rucksack is fairly light and I’m pretty pleased with my setup, although time will tell.
I caught the 9:07 train that should have given me 38 minutes kicking my heels waiting for the 10:27 Axminster train at Clapham Junction. Luckily, my train was delayed due to points failure, and arrived at 10:28, changing a leisurely wait into a mad sprint between platforms, the connection was only made as the Axminster train was delayed by 3 minutes. It’s nice when general lax performance works out in your favour, although I would have preferred the extra time to buy a coffee. Catching the connection also saved me the dilemma of whether any delay-repay refunds should be accounted for in my overall costs. The rushing around continued when the train which should have arrived at Axminster at 13:02, arrived at 13:15. The exact time the bus I needed was scheduled to leave. Luckily ( and by studying maps and train alignments, very intently) I was in the last carriage and right by the station exit, and close to the bus stop. The bus had left, but I caught it at the exit to the bus station. Reluctantly, the driver opened the door and after I’d paid, told me to sit down quickly. I felt I could relax now.
I’ve just re-read my blog from when I arrived in (finished walking at) Lyme Regis, which was on 22nd January. I think it is safe to say that it is a completely different place today. The place is bustling with holidaymakers, a bit difference from seeking shelter in a practically deserted pub. The biggest difference is the weather, it’s rather is different today!
It was a bit overwhelming walking through the throngs (not thongs!) along the sea front, the comparison to Kent last week is huge. I did manage to find a Cornish Pasty (they must be getting more genuine as I approach Cornwall) and a massive sausage roll. I also bought a hat in Mountain Warehouse, which would be half price if I bought something else. I didn’t want anything, but the sales assistant suggested a flapjack which pretty much paid for its self. I was fully stocked with food and ready to go. I was rather pleased when the coast path headed inland, and up into the woods, to get away from the crowds.
The path between Lyme Regis and Seaton is glorious. It is a single track path stretching for nearly 10 km with no alternative routes. The signs suggest you can’t get to the coast, but there seem to be a few paths down. I didn’t investigate as the actual path was pretty gruelling with steep steps up and down. The only respite was four benches on the route, which I ignored the first before realising how rare they were. The path was through lovely woods and forests, with the occasional glimpse of beautiful deserted sandy beached below. It almost seemed impossible that I had be sprinting across Clapham Junction station only a few hours ago, I was in a completely different world.
The path was the main part of the day, but there isn’t too much in can write about it, other than I only saw four other people all day, and the warning sign was slightly incorrect. It said it would take 3.5 to 4 hours, I did it in just under 3 hours, which was good (and a great relief).
I crossed the new bridge into Seaton, which gave a good view of the old bridge. It’s always interesting seeing old stone bridges right by the coast and the tidal sea. It seems to me that the stone is too fragile to withstand the ravages of the sea.
I didn’t see too much of Seaton, in fact the only thing I know about it is… that it has a tramway, which I didn’t see. In fact, I didn’t see anything as I was fixated on finding a water tap.

The path from Seaton to Beer, went along the shingle beach, which was quite a slog but worth using different muscles after the up and down of the previous path. The beach ended a a cliff and lots of steps up to a road. I followed a family up the steep road and used them as pacemaker. It was only when I was asked whether there was a path that would avoid the busy road, I realised I may not have followed the best people. I checked the map and I had missed the coast path turn off a good bit earlier. It turned out, there was a nice path down to the beach for the family, and by a stroke of luck I was nearer the Youth Hostel than I would have been going any other way.
I stopped at a shop and bought a beer, just incase the youth hostel didn’t have any, and headed up the hill. There was one final hill, and hairpin bend, to get to the hostel. I’d booked camping at a youth hostel (YHA), and while I’d thought about breakfast, I’d forgotten all the other benefits of the YHA. I picked a nice pitch, with table, and could use the kitchens and lounges. I didn’t, but I showered, a grabbed another (cold) beer from reception – the most local was Dartmoor – Legend, it was excellent, maybe due to all my walking, and found a nice bench to write this blog on.
I had intended to walk down into town, but after a couple of beers in the most peaceful location, I really couldn’t be bothered (to walk more hills). I grabbed another beer, ate all my spare food (sausage roll & flapjack), and decided I would survive until breakfast.

















