As ususual we left Sokraki in the twilight before dawn, although we did have a coffee from the well equipped accommodation. We started at 450 metres elevation, and I think that we all thought it shouldn’t bee too bad a day. Although, with the first stretch being largely downhill I should have suspected different.

It was just light enough as we reached the narrower, more difficult tracks and we headed off into the gloom. We made good time and arrived in the hill village of Spartilas at about 8:30. The views across to the mainland were spectacular.

We knew we needed to refuel here, as there would be no services for the rest of the walk. Unfortunately the first, and second cafes were still shut. We sat down outside the second and resigned ourselves to carrying on without breakfast, and only the food in our rucksacks. As I tried to eat a piece of Corfu nougat – without risking damaging my temporary filling ( have I mentioned my emergency root canal treatment before travelling here), I looked at the map again  and there was a shop around the corner. So we packed up again and found a bakery with a convenience store opposite. Fresh croissants all round.

From here the climbing really started. We were at about 400 metres, and the high point of the walk is 750 metres, so a lot of climbing was necessary. It was an overcast morning, and it seemed as I climbed, I got wetter and wetter, and I’m sure it wasn’t all sweat – I’m sure the clouds were condensing on me, like a cold mirror in a hot shower, but opposite. I needn’t of worried as it started to rain a little so the sweat, condensation and rain all became one.

The mast on the top of Pantokrator mountain started to come into view (we had already decided not to climb up to it) and the landscape turned into fractured karst, with incredibly shaped rock with lots of sharp edges. It was difficult walking and difficult navigating. We had to scramble over a few outcrops, and the final climb up to the road was over huge boulders as we had lost the path.

The descent from here was easy, a nice wide gravel road with good views over Albania, and Agios Spiridon our finishing point tomorrow. Also below, we caught glimpses of our last overnight stopping point in Old Perithia.

Old Perithia is Corfu’s oldest and highest mountain village. It was abandoned in the 1960s, when the tourist trade tempted the population to move to the coast. In the 2010s it started to be repopulated but as a heritage site. It was nice walking down through the ruins, with the occasional business and renovated house. We stopped at the honey farm and tasted a few types before buying some small pots. The owner had photos to prove we were in good company, with him posing with both Monty Don and Julia Bradbury.

Our accomdation is rather fancy, and the most expensive of the whole walk, but is the only one in the village. The only other things are three restaurants, we ate in two, and a few gift shop places. It certainly is a tourist hot-spot, and our waiter said it was because it was raining and not a beach day.

We had one of the best meals of the walk here, and managed to knock off the final two greek foods from Gelly’s recommendations. Namely, Kum-quat (on Manouri cheese and honey – really good) and greens, which was also good.

It’s our last day walking tomorrow so the evening was spent looking at flights and further accomodation. The prebooked accomodation  had really worked out smoothly for the whole walk and was nice not to worry about it for two weeks.