I do like camping. I had an excellent nights sleep although I did need to put a jumper on as my super lightweight sleeping system (a silk sleeping bag liner and a fleece sleeping bag liner, but no sleeping bag) left my top half a bit cold. I didn’t need to put socks on so it must be working! I woke up about 7, and my fellow backpacker already had her tent down, and was nearly packed. We had a quick chat, with the only tips I could think of going east (Lulworth ranges are shut every weekday, and the Exmouth ferry time table is poor), and when I got back from a shower she was gone. This acted as a good example for me, and I was packed up and walking by 8:10.

I’d decided to forgo a coffee, and stop at one of two possible cafes in the first hour, or so. I dropped down the hill to Slapton Sands. There was a monument for US service men in WW2, I thought it read it was for the locals accommodating them. After seeing more information later, I think it was for the 750 men that lost their lives practicing for the D-Day landing.  Slapton was deemed most like Utah Beach in Normandy, and the US marines practiced a full scale landing. The biggest issue was that a German torpedo boat attacked the landing craft, together with General Eisenhower insisting on using live ammunition. The notice board suggest that more men lost their lives at Slapton, than on Utah Beach. I can’t believe that is true, and I will investigate.

Anyway, there was no evidence of the first cafe on my map, and I arrived at the second at 9:30 and it wasn’t due to open until 10. Luckily I had some porridge, my travel aeropress for coffee and I had filled my M-kettle with water, so I found a bit of beach for breakfast.

It wasn’t so much a beach, but it was a safe spot in the sea defences. I’m a bit paranoid about the fire risk from the stove and this was perfect. Unfortunately there wasn’t much in the way of drift wood to burn, but I have found a trangia meths burner fits in the bottom perfectly. One boil gave me a pot of porridge (the pot had burst open, but has given the tent a lovely syrup smell – much better than wet socks) and a good cup of aeropress coffee, just like at home. It was perfect, and I will be repeating this, as its a nice to have a break after an hour or so walking. This stop was at Beesands, where one of my initial plans suggested I walk to on yesterday’s walk. Luckily, with all the train and bus delays I re-planned (I think after the walk last week gave me a view on how tough the walking was).

The main target now was Start Head. I could see the lighthouse, and a jagged rocky spine leading to it. The path was very rugged, which was a feature from this point until almost in Salcombe,  and as I got closer the spine leading to the lighthouse looked more like a dinosaur.

At Start Point there was a car park that had a filming crew in it. It was closed to the public, except on those on the footpath (but we mustn’t loiter!), and there was lots of gear including a car with another car (buggy really) on the roof. Presumably, the roof driver does the driving, while the actors below have a huge argument (while pretending to drive) or maybe doing car pool karaoke. I bought a freshly made lemonade (with hibiscus!!), and a flapjack at a coffee van in the car park. Definitely London prices – £7.50, but they may have been milking the film crew (who mainly seemed like idiots). The coffee van ignored any questions on what was being filmed. It was all a bit strange and unexpected after the quietness of the walk.

The next target was Prawle Point. It is impossible to know what effort anything is going to take on this terrain. You look up and see, what looks like a, signpost on the ridge 100 metres above, and think – OMG, but then the path slips off a low level. Occasionally, you think you are on the flat and are punished with a big climb. Today was just under 1,000 metres of climbing in total, and towards the end of the day I really felt it.

Eventually (I can’t write that word without thinking of Manuel in Fawlty Towers), some houses started to appear further along the coast, and there was some hope that I would reach Salcombe. They proved to be on the opposite shore and some distance, nevertheless it was hope. At about 2.30 nothing was getting nearer so I stopped at one of the little coves, Seacombe Sands, to have some lunch. This consisted of the Ginsters peppered slice I bought for dinner last night but didn’t need as the pub provided a surprise pizza. Again, it was pretty nice, or rather went down well, so I think I will repeat.

As I neared Salcombe, there was a lot more noise from the sea as it seems everybody is “messing about in boats” around here. I got to the Salcombe ferry (or rather the East Portlemouth Ferry, £3 by card) at 4.00. There was a queue, but a steady stream of ferries meant it moved really quickly. Salcombe is really busy.

I had tried to stay in Salcombe, but there are no campsites and, when I looked, no other accommodation under £1,000 for one night. So I’d booked on a camp site about 3 miles away. There was no shops near the site, so I shopped in Co-op for something to accompany the Pot Noodle I’d been carrying. I chose cooked chicken, and cooked rice – I should be able to do something with them! Obviously, I managed to find a couple of local ales, together with my now staples of Porridge and a Ginsters. So I ended up with a heavy shopping bag to add to my overall weight – stupidly I also bought 2 litres of water as I’d been unable to find a tap in Salcombe, so I filled all my bottles and drank what I couldn’t carry. I didn’t need so much water but its hard to resist, and almost the easiest way to fill everything, especially at 39p member special price.

Salcombe is a strange place. It has an incredibly fake feel about it, it seems to be full of people with holiday persona. Everyone is parading around the shops, or taking very expensive drinks (a shandy was £7.50 which is pretty much more than London prices). I was pleased I hadn’t shelled out a grand to stay, and headed (trudged) off toward my campsite. The path dropped down to North Sands where, what I thought would be a cafe and closed, was The Winking Shrimp resturant looking very inviting. I had intended to eat if I could, and like yesterday the food I had bought could be a backup, or walking food (not sure about the rice!).

I had a very Haloumi salad, with potatoes – I do seem to make healthier choices when I’m walking (or cycling) – and a Shrimp Juice, which was the unappealing name of the local beer.

After eating, I couldn’t delay walking to the campsite. It was pretty much up hill all the way, except for a lovely flat bit through some woods. I must say, despite Upper Hew Camp Site being over 100 metres above sea level, it has excellent facilities and I’d recommend it. I arrived at 6.30 giving plenty of time for relaxing and blogging.