I’m starting a big push on South Devon, and hoping to finish it in the next two weeks. The reason for rushing this is rather strange – in that I need to start on the Essex coast! In some way the two coast are similar, as one of the main constraints are the ferries across the various estuaries. Some of these are seasonal, and for a couple in particular in Essex, if I can’t get to them by the end of September, there are some very long walks inland. The logistics in Devon are just as hard, with some ferries not starting until 10:30am, and others stopping at 4pm, leaving a very small window of opportunity for walking. Add in the need to wade across a tidal river, only possible at low tide, and its got very complicated.

Today is one of my most expensive train tickets at £68 (with railcard), but I am walking for three days so the average cost isn’t too bad. Although, the train was late (28 minutes) arriving at Honiton, and South West Trains have a delay policy for over 15 minutes late (I’d rather cynicaly assumed it would be for over 30 minutes). I don’t normally claim, but in this instance it resulted in me missing the hourly bus to Sidmouth, so I will look into it – but will report the true costs in my finances. I’ve also gone for two nights hotel, so the budget will be completely blown – the average could be creeping up to £35 per day!

Despite the delay it was a painless journey, and I even remembered to grab a picture of Sutton Bingham Reservoir, and treatment works (hidden in the trees) as I passed. This was one of the first “water” jobs I worked on in the 1980s. Doing all the drawings for one of the first gas activated carbon (GAC) treatment works in the country. My best memory was my first site work, and being given two labourers and a JCB to head out into the surrounding fields. We (I, although the two guys were excellent) had to locate and uncover thrustblocks on the existing pumped delivery pipes, then measure them to see if they could take the proposed flows. The memory of us trying to creep past angry fishermen, with a clanking JCB, and landrover with trailer full of random land drainage pipes and tools was hilarious.

There were a lot of people waiting for the Number 9 bus at Honiton Station. It seemed the effect of the train delay wouldn’t be too bad as the bus was also delayed. The heat had affected the digital screen so it was hard to tell by how much. I gave in waiting by the station when the delayed bus disappeared and screen returned to the timetabled departure, with a 30 minute wait, and walked into town (where I knew where the previous bus stop was). I hoped to grab some lunch, but as I rounded the corner the bus had just pulled in. I jumped on, and when we got back to the station, I’m sure the queue thought I had done it to get the top deck front seats – they may be right!

Sidmouth was bustling, and I didn’t want to walk through the town centre looking for lunch (late lunch as I was 3pm), so I headed to the beach and the coast path. The beach was packed, it hadn’t been the school holidays when I finished the last leg.

The path quickly headed up a very large hill and I left the crowds behind. The first hill was the biggest climb, from sea level to over 150 metres elevation, but it was up and down the whole way.  In the late afternoon sunshine the views were stunning, although they were better behind me than in front. I just needed to remember to turn round regularly for the best views. This also gave me a rest from walking directly into the sun. It was baking hot and a case of just pulling my peaked cap down and heading into the sun. Just like Danny Boyle’s movie Sunshine – but hotter!

After about 10 km, seaside town of  Budleigh Salterton came into sight. Although there were lots of people on the beach it didn’t look as big, or as busy as Sidmouth. The only problem was an estuary, and the path headed inland for quite a distance, to a bridge. Although the views both along a nice stream, and the adjacent mud flats made up for the diversion.

Budleigh Salterton looks like a pretty unspoilt seaside town (in terms of no amusement arcades, but still has holidaymakers everywhere). I filled up with water, and decided to take a small diversion into town for an ice cream. There had been a steady stream of, those I suspected, coast path walkers coming the other way. One asked me where there was a shop to buy water, and I was able to direct him to the water filling point that I had used. I must say that the drinking water points being marked on Open Street Map (which I access through the Organic Maps App) is a real life saver, especially on really hot days.

After a quick ice cream (or more accurately a Feast), it was back up to the cliff tops. Quite a lot of the climb was under trees and shady hedgerows which gave respite from the late afternoon, but still hot, sun. From the high point the views of the red cliffs, and sea stacks were amazing.

Not quite so amazing were the vast caravan parks, which made navigation difficult as the vans seem to have been moved around (thinking about it – probably more added) and the path signposting was dismal. One site abutting a Royal Marines firing range, with a notice about them being good neighbours “you may see us scaling the cliffs, or doing PT on the beach, and.. oh yes, .. live firing every weekday 9 to 5”. The caravans were right up to the MoD fence with “Live firing range signs”.

There were more people near the caravan sites, and a bit further out I came across a mother (I’m guessing) and a young boy, who looked a bit lost. It turned out they were nervous of the cows in tbe field, and I bravely led them up to the cows, and gave the boy all my knowledge on “cow whispering”. I do think they liked to be talked to. They weren’t trying to walk past the cows but just walk up to them. I left the boy talking to the cows, and the mother still nervous but slightly bemused. Exmouth came into view, initially I thought I had spotted a church spire quite close, but it turned out to be a monument or “Geoneedle”, meaning the town was further away.

I’d booked a seafront hotel, which was pleasingly “run down”. It wasn’t really, but just more of what I was expecting for my money than the fancy hotel in Hythe a few weeks ago. Exmouth seemed to be, in commercialised seaside terms, halfway between Sidmouth and Budleigh Salterton. It had been a hot day, and even at 7pm there were people on the beach, and even swimming.

After a quick shower, I had dinner in a Youngs Pub (it was convenient), and went looking for the timetable of the Exmouth to Starcross ferry. I couldn’t find any tangible evidence of a ferry so I will revert to the details on the Internet. This suggests the first ferry is at the ridiculously late time of 10:40, so it seems I can have a leisurely breakfast tomorrow.