The day started with a “much as you can eat” Travelodge breakfast. It actually started when I sneaked my bike out of the room and into the bike racks outside. I didn’t really sneak it as I asked whether I could bring my folding bike in, its just I didn’t bother to fold it! It fitted the lift so why bother.

During breakfast, a text came from Andrew from the sailing boat (saillink.co.uk) saying I should meet at 8am. This gave me longer in the Travelodge endless breakfast, so I expect their share price will crash! I checked out while carrying my panniers, one in each hand. When I checked in, I put both panniers in one big bag, and I was shocked how heavy it was. So last night I did an audit, and disposed of duplicate shampoo and conditioner (what was I thinking!), a spare hairbrush (!!!) and a very heavy bamboo toothbrush holder. I think everything will be much lighter now. In my opening paragraph about this tour, I said I was well prepared. It was a lie, I’ve forgotten loads of stuff, and brought duplicate stuff. Pretty poor! Anyway, I headed to the meeting point, In the shadow of a cruise liner benching smoke all over the residents of Dover, and I instantly felt better about my decision to sail.

I was met at the gate by Diana and we walked to the boat – Echos – on the end of the pontoon. Echos is a big fancy catermaran that can take twelve passengers. I was the only passenger today (there were eight people to pick up in Boulogne) so it was a rather special experience.

My bike was whisked out of my hands and strapped in the “lounge” (I have no idea about nautical terms!) and my bags quickly followed. I was introduced to the crew, Diana who had met me at the gate, Andrew the skipper, Vita…* the first mate (please drop me a message with the correct spelling I’ll correct it – the Internet has failed to give me likely spellings – I feel terrible!!) and Sophie. It was a very relaxed time, as we untied and hearing all the radio communications to leave Dover I felt like I was off on a real adventure.

As we got into the main Dover Harbour we set sail, and the engines were cut before the harbour entrance. There wasn’t much wind, but the peace of just the wind as the white cliffs gradually got smaller was a nice feeling.

There were some big ships on the horizon and we were approaching the busy shipping lanes, or the TSS (The Dover Straight Traffic Separation Scheme). There was radio communication as to which ships we would pass behind (or in front off) and we used the engines to support the sails to fit through the gaps. Its a totally different experience than sitting on a ferry (or aeroplane). The radio traffic was quite enlightening, from a ship from Bremen in Germany to Uruguay with no cargo, to a captain apologising for not answering as he had been in the toilet.

The other thing I didn’t know, is there are sand banks in the middle of The Channel! Sounds like really bad design haha. There is a lightship in the middle, and conversation turned to how long you would stay on it – answers from a few days, to five years (provided there was internet) showed the diversity of the crew.

We then had to cross the lane going the other way, it is really busy out here. While the gaps look big, with the speeds involved it is a meticulous task threading through. One of the interesting things was the use of tell-tales which show the wind direction and turbulence on  the sail. I haven’t used this word for ages, but did in yesterday’s blog, and now realise I had no real idea of it’s spelling or where the word came from (Joyce – I’m sure you saw it, but I’m not changing it!).

We cut the engines when out of the TSS and France slowly appeared. All was calm when I went below to use the toilet, but when I returned all panic stations were on deck, where we snagged a very long line from a fisherman’s buoy. In the moment I was away, the sail had been dropped, the engine started and we circled to un-snag it. Full drama, and was a reminder of how the crew needed to jump into action. We did get the sails up, and in fact had the main on one side, and the jib on the other. There was lots of learning going on, and I expect one of the benefits of a scheduled sail service is providing plenty of experience to the younger crew.

We arrived at Boulogne a bit late (this is not a criticism, and must be a factor of using the elements, I only mention it as a justification for me finishing cycling early 😉). There were two policemen who noted my passport details, and when I asked for a stamp was told it is on-line. Really smooth, and nothing like being at any other boarder. Although the proof will be when I try to leave Europe! The eight return passengers were waiting, including three or four loaded bikes – I really hope this takes off as it is such a good idea – travel as it should be done! Thank you all for a great trip.

I pushed the bike up to the harbour side, into big crowds of promenadeders. I made the same mistake as when I left home, and asked Garmin to direct me to the start of the route. I ended up following the coast up some big hills, as it turns out unnecessarily and even worse, Strava didn’t record it. Did it even happen?

I managed to get back on the route and stopped next to a British war cemetery. This seemed like a good point to change back into cycling gear. On the boat, I had long trousers and a windproof cycling jacket, but it was still pretty chilly out of the sun (it was nice in the sun sitting on the deck). By the end of the trip I was quite cold and it took a few hills to warm me up. Anyway, by the Cemetery,  everytime I tried to change my trousers someone would pass , and it seemed a bit disrespectful to do it if anyone noticed. In the end it was a complete farce as I tried to take my trousers off in a rush with my bicycle clips still on. Back into shorts and a tee shirt I headed off. The first stop was a large monument with Napoleon on the top. I thought (I maybe wrong) that Napoleon was quite short, so this seems like over compensating. On the subject of facts, on the boat Sophie stated the fact that there is a lake in Switzerland that has tides, and then immediately back tracked on the fact – perfect. Google says that Lake Geneva has a 4mm tide, so I think both answers are correct.

The route followed the Route del la Mer Nord, which more simply is the North Sea Route, from Boulogne up into the Netherlands. It was really nice, with only one punishing hill which I had to walk up for a short section. I think the breakfast was wearing off, so J had to resort to Fig Roll power! I saw a couple of touring cyclists after the top, waiting for more of their group climbing up the otherside. J whizzed by with some cheery “Bonjour”. It did remind me of the beauty of these one way journeys, each hill is done and however bad it was of how you got up it, you never have to do it again. I find that a really helpful thought, when I’m trudging up a steep hill.

I did have a plan to get to Watten, about a 60km ride, but when I looked at the map a good looking campsite jumped out right next to my route. It was 10km short of my plan, but I’m sure I can catch it up. I realised I only had €20 in cash, but the site has a hotel as well so took cards and was only €14. The £15 I spent on my UK campsite was definitely a rip off in terms of facilities, this one was positively luxury.

Having saved a fortune by camping, I proceeded to spend it in the hotel restaurant with a three course meal and a couple of Affligems. They served the greatest of all French inventions – the cafe gourmand – multiple puddings and a coffee. A perfect way to end a great day 😀