I woke up quite early with the plan to catch a lunchtime ferry to Stromness on the Orkneys. After using the facilities, I went back to bed pondering on whether to aim for the 8:45am ferry. I tried to book on-line but for some reason it wouldn’t work, and I laid in my sleeping bag until 7:30 when I suddenly decided to try and catch it. Packing up was a real palaver, as nothing goes right when you are rushing. I even ended up with a washing up scouring pad in my pocket – nothing was in the right place. I got away at 8:03 and pedalled as fast as I could to the ferry terminal at Scrabster, about 4 km and predominantly downhill. I got to a booth and a queue of cars, and the guy said something about following the fence to something or other. The accents up here are really different to the stereotypical Scottish accent. Much gentler, but harder to understand. I thought he was sending me on a wild goose chase for being late, but it dawned on me he had said ship! Sure enough there was a ship (looking quite small against, what I imaging is, a small cruise liner).

I joined some other cyclists, and was pointed into the ticket office, where I paid less than I would have on-line. I think there is an over 60 concession rate, which the guy applied without even asking me – cheeky!

It turns out I needn’t of rushed. There is a problem with the front door of the ferry and everything is being loaded through the back doors. Lorries are being reversed on, and cars are doing a three point turn to face the right way. I chatted to one of the guys, who said the problem needed a dry dock, which is usually done in January. So it looks like this time-consuming loading will carry on for a while. As we chatted, an articulated lorry was being reversed onto the ferry, with some degree of difficulty. I had a minor panic when my gear lever managed to get stuck into a gap in a manhole cover. It was really hard to angle the heavy bike in a way to lift it out. It was a real freak ocurrance.

The bikes were loaded during a suitable gap (when cars were trying a three point turn in quite a confined space on the vehicle deck. I headed up for breakfast. A help yourself full Scottish, with coffee, for £10.95. Now that’s value!

When we got underway, the main thing I wanted to see was “The Old Man of Hoy”. A sea stack, famous (in my mind) for being climbed live on TV. I can’t remember when, maybe 1980s, but it was recreating one of the BBCs outside broadcasts from much earlier, in black and white.

The bikes were pretty much first off when we landed. I realised that only the first trance of cars had been turned around, all the rest had been driven on and would need a three point turn to get off. It must be a huge headache for the loading guys. I cycled through Stromness, through cobbled Street full of various shops. I was heading to the Ness. A spit of land that housed the campsite and the golf course.

I thought it was a bit cheeky asking to pitch my tent at 10:30, but John (who seems to run a very efficient site) said no problem. As he showed me around the facilities, he said this the the lounge and TV room, in case you get stuck here. I said that I came here 35 years ago by motorbike and we were pretty much stuck in the tent for a day due to rain. He said I was lucky, it can be much longer!

It was really fine weather, so I pitch camp, unloaded anything I wouldn’t need and headed off to see the sights. Orkney is more touristy than anywhere I’ve been on this trip, with coaches busing the (seemingly mainly french) tourists between sites. The standing stones on Orkney are so impressive, especially in the sun.  

I paid to go around Skara Brea, a 5,000 year old neolithic village that had been lost and exposed in a storm. I’ve been here before, but I’m sure the recreation of one of the huts wasn’t here, which gives a new dimension to understanding what living here would be like.

I decided that was enough sightseeing and headed to the Orkney Brewery (it would be rude no to!). It is located in the middle of nowhere, halfway down a steep hill with fine views. I think I should have booked a tour as they are certainly geared up for tours, tastings and food. I started on a pint of Black Isle, followed by a half of Cliff Edge. Both were really nice. I could have stayed longer but I had an hours ride back to Stromness.

I did manage to squeeze a bottle of Puffin – a Tawny Ale! – into a spare bottle holder. It was a nice ride back mainly on tiny lanes with no cars, or the main roads with very light, courteous traffic. The views were great.

Once back into town, I scoped out a ferry I will need tomorrow and hit the co-op for dinner. I was hoping to pick up some more of the Orkney Brewery range for scientific testing back at the campsite, as my local co-op keeps a good range of local beer. However, I was disappointed with only one beer I fancied that I’ve not yet tried. The Bellhaven Black, really is BLACK, as I found out it is in a clear bottle. Both were good, but I’d like to try another Puffin.

It had been a good day pedalling around the island, and being a bit touristy. Seeing Orkney in the sun was a real treat, compared to my previous visit. The bike is certainly easier to ride without tonnes of weight on it!

Total Dist Cycled 666 km, (414 miles) 5 Ferries, 1 Train