San Vicente de la Barquera to Cades 28km

Well last nights weather forecast wasn’t completely correct. It rained in the night, which was quite nice in an open door shelter, I had to shuffle back to keep out of the rain. Being completely inside my sleeping bag and bivvy bag it wasn’t a problem. I woke about 6, and it was not raining, but the weather forecast said rain at 7, lasting through to 11 am. Even though it was pitch black, I decided it was better to pack up in the dry (although it wasn’t “dry”, it was just not raining). My biggest problem is that everything I have is blue, so it’s pretty much impossible to find anything. A blue jacket on a blue sleeping bag, is pretty much invisible. I managed to get everything packed by the light of a mobile phone (have I mentioned I forgot my headtorch!) just as it started raining. I quickly retreated to the toilet block for final adjustments, and rigging my poncho so it covered my rucsac.

I headed off into the drizzly dawn, crossing the bridge into San Vicente de la Barquera. I decided to crack straight on and in my determination, I picked the wrong road. Never wanting to turn around, I managed to get onto the Camino after a few kms. I was expecting to be walking on the Camino Lebaningo today, but it shared a path with Camino del Norte for some of the way. After about 5km, there was a sign with a different route, the villages route, to avoid some of the Camino. I was really tempted, as it claimed it was 3km shorter, but looking at my map the claim seemed unbelievable. So I resolved to take the right path. The rain had stopped, and the sun was coming out and then a bench appeared. I stopped for breakfast, yes cheese sandwiches, and took the opportunity to get the tent out for drying in the sun/wind.

After a few minutes it was dry, just in time for four Portuguese walkers to ask if I was camping there. Once again, the route was on quiet roads until where I thought the route split. Then it was a glorious wooded section, plenty of puddles, mud and slip sliding. I had been missing this! This path continued to another split of the paths (this was actually it) and had a little cafe for coffee and cake.

From this point on, I was following the red crosses of the Lebaningo. It was a completely different route, 10% roads and the rest brilliant footpaths, following a river, crossing Meadows and short board walks. It was really good.

I knew there was no camping sites ahead, and had tried to book an albergue on line, but the website wasn’t working. I decided to wing it. Then I got to a sign saying there was limited accommodation ahead and it was necessary to book the albergue. The QR code gave me the same error. There was nothing for it, I had to get my custom phrase book out, Google a few more phrases and ring up. It went to answerphone, I think. I’ll ring later. I carried on following the river, it was a really nice walk.

Then my phone rang – I didn’t have my notes in front of me, but I remembered ¿hablas inglés? and the woman who rang back spoke english. She thought there might be a bed depending on a big party, and rang back to confirm. There was confusion with my name and I had become Mati, by the time I got there.

The path was exceptional through rugged landscapes, with tricky paths. There were a few roads to finish, but if the rest of the Lebaningo is like that, I’m in for a treat.

Upon arrival at the albergue it seemed like unorganised chaos. There was a big group at a table that stretched right across the room with everyone making a lot of noise. I found a girl who was organising, she didn’t speak English but did say “Mati” and seemed pleased to see me. I was in the right place. I was pointed to the last bed, a top bunk and I met Carlos from Madrid. He knew me! I was the UK guy hiking the Lebaningo! Turns out he had met Xavier in San Vicente. He was the only person who spoke english (he has friends in Horsham), everyone else was Spanish from all over Spain, even from Majorca.

There was a good atmosphere and I had a beer before doing my washing.  The evening meal was a simple yet grand affair. A massive salad, then vegetable spaghetti bolonaise and a yogurt, just like being at home. I slept quite well, although there was a lot of loud snoring – which I tried not to contribute to, too much. Someone’s phone went at about midnight, and two ladies who had been travelling together suddenly left. I’ve no idea what was going on there…..