Santander to Boo de Piélagos (32 km)

I’m claiming that this leg is Camino del Norte (The Northern Way) but I only saw a way marker at the beginning and one at the end, but nothing in-between. This is because I took a lo….ng alternative route on the costal path. I had heard that the official route out of Santander just follows the main road. This was confirmed by a guy on the ferry (on his 20 something Camino with a pushchair of gear – there are 52 caminos apparently, an expert!), and said he would take to bus to avoid it. So I felt justified in my decision.

The security for foot passengers was just as strange upon landing. All our bags were x- rayed (while the cars just drove off) something very odd in how each type of traveller is treated. However, the spanish border guards seemed very disappointed that there were not Swiss army knives left to confiscate ;). The ferry terminal was right in the centre of town, so I just crossed the road to a cash machine and the (closed) cathedral was just around the corner. The stamp (or sello) would have to wait.

I’ve only been to Santander once before, to catch a ferry home, and based on that I wasn’t expecting much. However, it’s a really nice town. I think previously we just parked in the port waiting for the ferry. I started walking, just keeping the sea to my right and nothing could go wrong. Not quite true as I walked into a few dead-ends  but easy navigation. It was nice and warm, almost muggy, and lots of people were out and about on a nice Saturday morning. Including a massive game of football, I kept losing count trying to work out how many players.

The urban path ran out at the lighthouse. Where a quick coffee before nearly doing myself a mischief trying to climb a wall with a rucsac on, to get on the coastal path. It’s a great path, not marked at all but well trodden. I can’t write too much in detail (because i know nothing on the subject), but the geology is amazing, with tilted strata, almost vertical, together with the erosion from sea and wind. It reminded me of the Dorset coast (but cliffs not as high) or the islands off Croatia which are similarly sloped. A real feast for the eyes.

I had bought some supplies enroute and inadvertently bought the flattest bread ever and the substantial-ness wasn’t improved with the addition of a slice of cheese. I need to get my shopping eye in, although it is easy to pack and should last until tomorrow, Sunday, when I fear the shops will be shut.

It was 25km of dramatic coastal walk but it finished up with a walk through a nice forest and then down a road to my first albergue. The albergue is really nice, it’s a small privately run one, just like a hotel really. Pretty cheap for a twin room, I booked it on Booking.com  (I don’t know if there are dormitories) and they have a pilgrim menu €12. Feta cheese salad, gammon and chips (although the electric went off and was offered two eggs rather than the fries – still nice), an ice cream and coffee.

All in all a good day. Lots of up and downs (incidentally i seemed to have climbed around 600 m each day, seemingly regardless of the terrain. I’ve finally met, and chatted to fellow walkers and the feel of walking has changed. Tomorrow is a big day, I’ll be walking on the Camino all day for the first time …..