Havant to Portsmouth 20 km

It was nice waking up to the knowledge that it was only a short walk today. 20km should be a breeze. Had breakfast the hotel and there was a slight kerfuffle as I was “room only” and the hotel accounts were being sorted so couldn’t pay until it was done. I only had to wait a few minutes and got loads of blog written, so it was a real win. I headed out into Havant before 8 am. I don’t think l saw the best, but there are some really nice old buildings around (as well as the hotel).

I soon got on the “Billy Trail”, my initial plan had been to take the Solent Way, but its a really long way around the harbour, and it’s the site of the longest site visit I’ve ever done. Walking a potential sewer pipeline route between Portsmouth and Havant. I’ve cycled it a few times, but didn’t fancy walking it, especially as I wouldn’t be getting very paid for it! The route down Hayling Island and the ferry across to Eastney seemed much better use of my unpaid time!

Almost as soon as I got onto the Billy Trail, it started to rain. Out came the trusty poncho as I sheltered under a bridge. I had both my poles strapped to my rucsac, and no matter how hard I wriggled, I couldn’t get the poncho over my pack and the pole handles. Luckily, a passing, similarly soaked, lady was happy to adjust my poncho. The rain continued, and when I got to the bridge onto Hayling Island, the wind really picked up and the rain increased. It left me with a doubt whether the ferry would be running. I decided to ring them, and everything was running to schedule. It would have been a real pain to walk all the way there to find it closed.

The rain subsided, and I stopped for a coffee at a burger van. The wind was still strong and maybe still exceptional as the vans dustbin blew over, leaving people scrambling around for the rubbish. I don’t think this happens all the time. One blue plastic bag was left hanging in a bush that couldn’t be reached due to flooded ditches. There was a conversation about how long it would last, others saying a few days until the wind changed, while I was thinking 1,000 years. I’ll go back and see who was right!

I carried on through some very nice houses until I reached the seafront, where a turn to the west led me to the ferry. I wasn’t going to run and presumed that I’d missed the 10:35 boat. However, when I got there a few minutes late, it was still there. The boatman said they don’t bother crossing if there is no one on the other side. The crossing is only a few hundred meters and took me anyway.

So I was the only passenger, and when I arrived, it coincided with the bus that was waiting. I felt a bit guilty walking past when the bus was empty, but I was impressed at the integrated transport. This bit of Portsmouth (Eastney) is very mixed, with lots of boatyards, the huge Fort Cumberland (which is not open to the public), and lots of flats and housing. It was great to see someone’s 50th birthday announcement on a bed sheet. This used to be a regular occurrence, but I’ve not seen one for years.

The walk into Southsea was brutal, into a cold headwind. There were plenty of other promenaders and joggers braving the conditions. It reminded me that I had forgotten to pack my gloves (I had intended to). This, in turn, reminded me that I should post some stuff home as my pack was too heavy. I’d decided to abandon any idea of cooking and go the cold food route. So I was able to lose my trangia stove, aeropress coffee maker, and one dehydrated meal. Added to a few other bits of clothes, a mini speaker (what was I thinking), and spare headtorch batteries (as I’d managed to forget the headtorch – doh). According to the post office, this should shave 1.67 kg from my pack, I was hoping for more.

I was in plenty of time for the ferry to Spain, so I had a good walk around Portsmouth. I visited the Cathedral, which looks like an admiralty building, to get a stamp. I’m really beginning to like the Pilgrim Passport. It’s a real opportunity to get chatting, and here was no exception. I learnt that the Cathedral Tower was a lantern for guiding ships. I was also asked what the flowers were like in Arundel Cathedral, Liz also asked me this question, and I had to give the embarrassing answer of “I didn’t notice” both times.

I had a visit to the Historic Shipyard, where the bag search was interesting given the size of my rucsac, and my Swiss army knife temporarily retained. It was certainly worth a visit as you can just walk around for free and go in a few of the boat sheds. You can see the outside of the bigger ships, although the majority of Victory is under wraps. I suspect it’s undergoing refurbishment ready for active service!

With plenty of time on my hands I made frequent coffee stops, and a perfect time for a work call. Eventually, I headed off walking along the unpleasant dual carriageways to the Cross Channel port. At check in / security my Swiss army knife was confiscated permanently (a bit sad as I’ve had it for years). It seemed like they found something with every foot passenger, while the cars just stream on board without any checks. Its airline level of security for the foot passengers which is completely crazy and nonsensical. Any pleading was met with – “rules is rules.”

On the bus it sounded like out of the 20 foot passengers (most people travel by car), five Swiss army knives were taken. It’s not surprising as a large percentage are hikers and is essential equipment. There is no means to reunite you with it, or keep it for return, or post it home. At over £30 each, I’m sure someone has a good secondhand business going! I took my tweezers and toothpick from mine, so devalued it a bit (they didn’t seem happy). So now it’s just 36 hours on the boat without any practical way to make sandwiches. They are just lucky they didn’t try to take my titanium spork – I’d never let that go ;).

The only other thing to mention is, I was forced to travel on a bus from the terminal to the ferry. I had decided to shun all forms of wheeled transport so it was disappointing for it to happen so early in the journey. What was worse was knowing that there is a “hoverbus” in Portsmouth so this disappointment could have been avoided!