2018 Day 13 Tórshavn (FO) to Seyðisfjörður (IS) – 10km

Today, I will be pretty much static, so I’ll claim the overnight boat to Iceland so it looks like I’ve travelled somewhere.

I woke to calm weather, and sunshine. So decided on an early shower and catch up on the laundry, as its been difficult in the stormy weather – as it felt like it would dry in a couple of hours. I’d heard that the National Gallery opened at 11 (apparently some sources say 1pm), so I made breakfast and packed up really slow.

It was really nice cycling through Torshavn without wind or rain, and I was able to stop to photograph things. The first stop was the National Football Stadium, the Faroese are clearly football mad – there are three pitches and a couple of clubs just in Torshavn. While struggling over the fateful mountain a few days ago, the first sign of civilisation I saw in Eidi was the football stadium, and then the campsite was on an AstroTurf pitch in the town as well. At least two pitches for a town population of 669 (according to Wikipedia)!

Then on to the National Gallery of the Faroe Islands, which had some really good stuff in the permanent collection. Two things really stood out, the undersea illusion in a container, mirrors gave the impression of seeing 600m down (or so the blurb says), and artist Thomas Arge with a style that appealed. That said there was loads of good art in there, and sculptures in the grounds.

I then went to the Nordic House, which is a modern venue, containing concert hall, art galleries, and cafe – all under a green roof. A spectacular building (or rather space), and really welcoming – it seemed a group of mothers were meeting up and there were babies crawling everywhere. The only exhibition was the Faroes Summer Exhibition with the theme water – lots of audio visual pieces but all put together well.

As I was about to leave, it started raining so was forced to look out the massive windows at the view – tough life. Eventually, it stopped enough to make a dash for it, but I only got as far as SMS – the premier (only) shopping mall in the Faroes. Even this was nice, crazy golf to keep the kids occupied – I opted for a Burger King.

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I carried on cycling around town, and I saw the first other cyclist since arriving – the Faroese are fair weather cyclists). I actually went past the bike shop, and then saw bikes everywhere – even a tandem, but no touring cyclists.

I checked in for the ferry, and joined the motorcyclists – most of whom had been in the ferry coming in, and in the campsite. Generally they had stayed in Torshavn as the wind was just as bad for them, as my bike. The route the ferry took, passed by many of the sites of my epic ride on Monday. The view of Funningur, and the size of the mountain behind, the pass is almost at the height of the highest peak on the Faroes, Slaettaratindur at 880m – I was very lucky to get over it ok, the bikers had heard the winds were upto 100 km/hr, gulp.

The ships captain mentioned 3m waves, I’m not sure if that is good or bad, but we are due into Iceland at 8:30am. I am developing a plan to cycle less, and holiday more – let’s see what the weather is like.

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