It was an early start to catch the 7:06 train, which had been cancelled (which I think happened last week too!). Luckily, I was early and caught an earlier train into Brighton. However, the the train from Brighton decided not to only go to Portsmouth, rather than Southampton. This caused knock a knock on effect which meant I missed the 10:35 bus from Bournemouth to Sandbanks. The buses are hourly and I wouldn’t start walking until after 12. I’m definitely going to try Delay-Repay to get some money back on my ticket – it really just isn’t good enough!

I caught the 11:35 bus, and managed to get a top floor, front seat. This seemed to disappoint the many old people on the bus. However, I’m pretty sure I was the only paying passenger on the bus (£3 if you are interested), so I felt comfortable blocking the strong stares into my back. It must be said, my rucksack took the most negative energy, but it soaked it up, seemly oblivious as it enjoyed the top deck front seat of the 50 Purbeck Breezer!

I took the bus across the ferry, rather than walking (as a foot passenger) which would have cost me £1 extra! I got off at Shell Beach and walked back to the sculpture marking the start of the 630 mile South West Coast Path.

At this point, I feel I should mention “The Salt Path” although I have neither read the book or seen the film, but I am aware of the controversy. This blog will form the basis of my book “The Beer Path”, which will be much less successful but much more controversial! There was a big group of old people (different ones from the bus freeloaders) blocking the very sandy (official?) coast path. This proved useful as I headed straight to the beach, rather than messing around in Studland Bay sand dunes*. I found a good walking surface on the falling tide just above the water. I made really good time along the beach, which was just as well as I had an over ambitious route, and had started an hour late.

Note * it’s probably best not to “mess around in the sand dunes” as it is a nudist beach. I only breathed a sigh of relief at the sign that said I could put all my clothes on again. It wasn’t a warm day!

As I walked, a really tiny seagull was walking alongside, dipping in and out of the water and its tiny black legs moving at a frantic rate to keep up with me (or stay ahead). Initially, I assumed it was a baby but when it flew off, at supersonic speed and quite a distinctive chirp (which lived in my head for a while, but have completely forgotten when writing this) I don’t think it was. I think my lack of remembering bird calls is my main disadvantage with bird watching, although I Googled my recollections and was surprised that it maybe a “Small Gull”. However, pictures show it to have a black head, so perhaps it is some sort of Tern, and not a seagull at all.

The whole length of Studland Beach had been busy, dodging dog walkers and their dogs. At the western end, all the carparks and cafes are located, so it’s a fair bit busier, but does have toilets and water, which is useful. I passed a few cafes but resisted as I have a long way to go, and an ASDA meal deal in my bag, which I can’t touch until at least 5km.

I then took the footpath to Old Harry’s Rocks. I was good to get off the beach, but as I started walking, as well as chatting to a workman who was trying to repair the Ladies Public Toilets, (he said it was very difficult to get any work done as ladies keep wanting to use it), there were three police cars and an ambulance. It seemed something was going on on the beach. I headed up towards the headland, getting a walking pole out as this was going to be the first substantial hill since Eastbourne, which was my third day of walking and I think this is my 18th. A Coastguard 4×4 came past on the track, as well as quite a big group of people coming back the other way, so something was going on here as well. Then two Coastguard 4x4s, with maybe ten personnel, reversed back past me, so maybe it was over. But then came across a Police 4×4 with climbing ropes tied to its wheel, disappearing into the bushed and presumably down the cliff. It was on a narrow track, and I had to squeeze past. Then a single policeman (with a paramedic) asked, very politely, whether I’d been stopped from walking up from Studland. I obviously said no, supported by a couple with a baby in a backpack, who I overtook on the way up. He was turning back people coming from the other direction. Nobody had any idea what was going on, and It looks like I had a lucky escape as I could have been delayed even more. I had Old Harry’s Rocks to myself before heading off on the cliff top.

The climbing, and more challenging, the descents were tough, although it was nice to be experiencing a wilder landscape on the coast path. I knew it was going to get wilder from here, so I sat down and ate my lunch with a marvellous view of Swanage even though I had only walked 9.4km.

I’ve walked around the Swanage area quite a few times, so it was nice retracing some familiar paths down into town. Although I did manage to find some new steps down to the beach, which may have been a mistake when I tried to climb over the first breakwater, but subsequent ones were much easier (on my tired legs). Swanage is unchanged, just a really nice seaside town. It’s good to see that it still has a Wimpey and Beavers tea rooms has not renamed.

I was definitely behind schedule and had booked accommodation in Kingston, further along the coast, so I needed to push on. Initially, past the Sewage Treatment Works which built in the heart of the town to teat previously untreated sewage. I think it was one of the first to be built largely underground and clad in local stone to blend in with its surroundings. The coast path goes below it, so you just see big stone walls.

From here, it was a rush around a number of headlands. First Peveril Point, which I’d never been to before. Then back into some housing and out to Durlston Head, and it’s massive globe, before heading out into the wilds and Anvil Point with its lighthouse.

From Anvil Point, I was just heading west on the cliff tops. I used to climb on the cliffs here, and the first place I passed was Subliminal Ledge. I can remember coming here, just abseiling off the edge of the cliff down to a ledge with any difficulty unseen, and climb back up again. It wasn’t always easy, and one time we went over, and it took all afternoon to climb back up. The routes were easy, but mentally I couldn’t get up them. I think that might have been the last time I climbed on this ledge and focused on ones with better access.

I carried on, noticing all the tail tale routes over the fence, leading to other climbing areas. I tried to remember the names, but the only one I could think of was Cattle Troughs, where you abseiled over the edge near some cattle troughs. I didn’t spot them. Dancing Ledge is a big climbing area, with impossible overhangs on the upper layer (bolted routes) and more traditional routes lower down where I have spent many hours climbing here.

It was starting to get dim, and I knew I didn’t want to be on the cliff path in the dark so had some choices to make. My original route was about 12km, with a stretch target (route) another 23km (what was I thinking!). Both seemed unwise, but equally heading inland at Dancing Ledge to the easy Priests Way, (which I knew quite well) seemed a cop out. So I pressed on to Seacombe before heading inland to Worth Matravers and one of my favourite pubs, the Square & Compass.

I had time for a half before heading off into the dusk towards the Scott Arms in Kingston. Walking in the dusk is brilliant, as you see so much more wildlife. There was a deer alongside me on one footpath, and I’m pretty sure I saw a badger, as well as disturbing every bird that had settled down for the evening  – sorry. The final stretch was along a road, and I’m glad I brought a torch to warn the occasional car.  It was a a nice relief to see the pub, I had a nice room and that they were serving food!

I won’t be able to get back to the coast path tomorrow as I have an even longer day planned, but I will need to come back to complete the missing section  – and more!! Due to some really poor planning, I already knew that I will have to divert inland from Kingston (on the Hardy Way) around the Lulworth Firing Ranges. This section is, apparently, one of the nicest on the coast path. So I will have to come back and walk from Seacombe to Durdle Door when the Ranges are open (almost every weekend and never on weekdays – planning – doh!).