What a difference a day makes. I woke to a nice sunny day. It had absolutely poured down in the night, and I had feared for my tent, but it was really nice now. I spent most of the night considering either Option A, finishing the Hebridian Way, presumably to a commemorative bus shelter (although I think, rather disappointingly, it might be a lighthouse). Or Option B, cycling to Stornoway, avoiding an unnecessary 50km out and back ride, with around 500m of climbing. For those of you who know me, the decision was easy, as I hate retracing routes, especially ones like this. I would spend the whole time on every hill, thinking I should turn around and head back. The decision was made easier with a laundry on the site,  so I got everything clean and dry, with the exception of a pair of swimming trunks and a puffer jacket (it must have been a sight to see!!)

Despite thinking I had washed absolutely everything, I managed to miss my wet cycling gloves and my cloth food bag where a spare pot of curry sauce had leaked. There were two squalls of rain during the morning,  which with the strong winds further reinforced my decision. It will be nice to have an easy day pand prepare for the next week of my tour.

I left at about 10:30 am in good weather and almost immediately made use of my more relaxed approach by stopping to see an ancient dwelling. This was a Shieling, a very basic shepherd’s hut. I imagine it wasn’t a too bad place to live with thick stone walls, a turf roof, and a fireplace inside protecting you from the elements. Compared to my tent over the last two nights, I could see the attraction.

I carried on to the junction, which was my final chance to choose the Hebridian Way. The petrol station was shut as it was Sunday,  so unlikely to get supplies, the wind was much the same as yesterday, so getting back to here would be a struggle.

I headed to Stornoway. I have a ferry at 7am tomorrow, a hotel booked tonight and wearing clean clothes, it was like a new start. The road to Stornoway crosses a high peat bog. The roads were straight and just climbed and climbed. Not too steep, but with a headwind (sometimes) and heavy bags, it was just a case of grinding along in low gears all the time.

It was great to get up close to the peat bog. You could see where areas had historically been cut (dug out in blocks) and where presumably walkways had been left. At the edge of the road, the dense black peat was visible. There wasn’t any evidence of the peat being excavated, either with small stacks of peat drying or anything more major. I need to read up on peat, as I know it should be avoided in compost, but googling suggests it is a renewable energy source. This surprised me! I think it renews at 1mm per year, so very slowly, but has far more CO2 locked into it than even coal. It would seem to be a bad idea to burn peat. Let’s stick with our “windmills,” quoting Trump who arrived in Scotland yesterday.

Eventually I reached the top and it was only 5 km down into Stornoway. It had been a real grind and further reinforced my correct decision. The roads had gradually been getting busier as I’d travelled north, and since Harris, the “Passing Place” had disappeared and two-way traffic was the norm. On this road over the island, it was a pretty regular stream of traffic. As I entered civilisation (it sometimes feels like that when you cycle across wild places) I decided to stop in a bus shelter. Believe it or not, this is the first one I’ve felt the need to sit in. All the others just provided emotional support. After a quick drink and some chocolate, I continued into Newmarket and then Stornoway.

It was like entering a normal british town. Cars parked everywhere, roundabouts, traffic lights, it was a real shock to the system. I was probably lucky it was a sunday and not a Monday morning.

I had a cycle around town, but as it was Sunday almost everything was closed. I elected for a burger and a pint in the New Lewis bar. Both were really good. It was very quiet, but still plenty to observe, a dog having Sunday lunch, and the barmaid trying to explain yorkshire puddings, to foreign tourists.

I’d opted for the cheapest hotel in town and based on some reviews I was expecting a tiny single room. I was pleasantly surprised, and even more so when my bike went into a locked store room meaning I didn’t need to carry all my luggage upstairs.

The effects of the beer, but definitely not the cycling, had its affect and I fell asleep on a comfortable bed for the first time in a week.  I woke up to remember that the Tour was finishing today and put the TV on just to see them enter Paris. They have changed the route to incorporate three climbs up Montemartre. The first time was in good weather, and then a rain storm hit Paris. The final racing was fantastic. It was also very sad that its the last year ITV/Channel 4 will cover the tour as another sport disappears behind a pay wall. If you get a chance to see the Tours highlights they played with the closing credits do watch it – so many iconic moments.

I did also watch the Lionesses win against Spain, mainly during the advert breaks of the cycling, but when they went to extra time and penalties, I could focus more fully. I think we have been practicing penalties since last week! Well done.

The town was pretty dead, being a Sunday and I suppose, being a town on a small island, albeit a big town on a small island. All the shops are here, Tesco’s (I’d even been passed a few times on the Moor, by home delivery, a pet hate when I’m cycling at home), Argos, Superdrug and even a Peacocks, that has the same 70% summer sale blanking out the windows as Burgess Hill branch.

I opted for a Chinese followed by a beer in the Criterion Bar. A friendly place but only four other customers. Along way from the bustling live music scene I was hoping for.

On the subject of bus shelters, you started it! I had seen some really basic concrete shelters at the road side. Just two vertical walls in a cross, with a slab on the top. They always seemed to be near “Children Crossing” signs so thought they might be for kids to shelter while waiting for the school bus. Thinking about it, it’s a good design as it provides shelter in all wind directions, but if you were around the back, you may miss the bus (which is why I thought school bus). Unfortunately, I didn’t taken any pictures and had almost forgotten this train of random thoughts until I saw a drawing in a local gallery….

Back to the mainland tomorrow to head further north.