Hampshire Coast Path 6/7 Calshot to Lymington (34 km)

Today was going to be my latest start ever, and my latest finish, also the longest leg yet. Unluckily, my niece Beth had “chosen” this leg to walk with me! Logistically this was a very hard leg to plan, as there are only a couple of buses per day to Calshot, none of which coincided with any off-peak trains. I had realised this when I finished the last section and had walked a bit further to an overlap point north of Calshot. So after departing Burgess Hill at 9:06, changing at Hove with time for a coffee and bacon sandwich, arriving at Southampton, meeting up with Beth, catching a bus to Fawley (arr 12:30) and walking to the overlap point, were arrived at 13:30 with 5 km already under our belts.

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The first section from Fawley had been really nice, following lovely green footpaths. However this was set to change as almost as soon as we had retraced our steps from the overlap point we were walking on a road. Albeit a nice quiet road with little traffic, but it was going to set the scene for the day. There were a lot of roads (lanes really) to walk down. This did allow a good speed to be maintained, and when quiet enough, allowed a good bit of chatting.

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We first reached what could be called a “coast path” at Lepe, with good views across the Solent to the Isle of Wight. It was a nice path, initally on the sea defence and eventually on the shingle (of a reasonable particle size for walking). However, we reached a bit where the tide was covering, so had to take the high tide route. This obviously led to a lane, and more road walking.

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I mustn’t complain too much as it was really nice until we reached Exbury. I knew, from my planning that this was going to be a long drag (over an hour) along a straight road towards Beaulieu. It wasn’t  too busy, but we did have to walk in single file, stepping off the road for the occasional, but frequent, car. Most of the traffic was going to Exbury House, which had a steam train. Despite hearing lots of huffing, puffing and rails screeching, I didn’t see a train.

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After what seemed (and was) an eternity we crossed a cattle grid and were in the New Forest. It was a relief to get of the road, and walk amongst the New Forest Ponies. We passed a pub, but pushed on towards Beaulieu for our “lunch”. We arrived at 4:07 and the kitchen closed at 4:00 (I’m getting really good at missing things by about 5 minutes!). That said there is nothing wrong with having a massive slice of Dorset Apple Cake (me), or a scone cream and jam (Beth) for lunch – in fact we definitely deserved such extravagance.

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Beaulieu is a lovely little village, and is the home of the National Motor Museum. There wasn’t much evidence of the museum, but we had a good view of the old Manor house at its centre. I had thought of ending the walk here during planning, but buses only serve on a Tuesday and Thursday, which really surprised me that such a poor bus service should be provided to such a famous village and museum. The museum offers 20% off to visitors arriving by public transport, I have a feeling they don’t have to pay out very often!

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The route was idyllic from here towards Bucklers Hard. A really nice path, well marked and worn by tourists, heading back down the west side of the Beaulieu River so unlike the boring road on the east.

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Bucklers Hard is one of the most unspoiled places I’ve seen. Two rows of houses, which aren’t all houses, as at least one is a pub, and another a church all just facing a green. Not a road, or car or other modern artifact in sight. Nice.

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From here it was back on the Lanes. Hardly any cars but lots of bicycles, and really nice cycling countryside. I nearly had an accident, as I stepped off the road to let a car pass and then nearly stepped back right into an oncoming cyclist – oops.

One of the most interesting things on this section  was  what looked like the ruins of a church (or bigger – monastery or cathedral?) which now formed part of a more modern (but still very old) barn. Part of the end wall and one side wall had been used to make the barn – really quite interesting to think about the history of it.

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The final bit into Lymington was on really nice footpaths. It’s worth mentioning that from Beaulieu we has been following the Solent Way, whereas the earlier section was just “my route” keeping as close to the coast as possible. The Solent Way cuts cross country from Hythe, and as such is not really a coast path, but is probably a nicer route than all the roads (that I subjected Beth to, sorry). Just before we finished, we were treated to seeing a number (maybe four) hares in a field, which was really nice to see. The final run into Lymington was through a big “pick your own” farm, with some dodgy tractor driver, and past the most popular “adventure” golf in town (or perhaps the only thing to do in the town!).

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We reached Lymington just as the Isle of Wight ferry was unloading, and Lymington Pier station is right next to the ferry. We sat and waited for the train.  We were both very tired and our legs hurt – but interestingly in different places – mine hips and knees, Beth fronts and backs – must be an age thing. The train took us to Brockenhurst, where we had to “run” over a footbridge to catch the connecting train, which was agony. Luckily, a faster runner than us reached the train and begged the guard to keep the doors open. A few trains later I was home by 11:30pm. I think I am stretching how far is possible in day trips. Just one more day to finish the Hampshire Coast.

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