O Cebreiro to Sarria 38km

A much better night’s sleep than in your average albergue. It just goes to show what a bit of good design can do. If you were to say 60 people sleeping in one room it sounds a nightmare, but each bunk was partitioned off on at least two sides, and the way they were arranged made it seem private. As such, any snoring sounded like it was from a different area and easy to ignore. It was slightly harder to ignore the rustleling at 5:45. It seems all the expert camino-ers, keep everything in very crisp plastic bags. Very wise. I left at 8:00, but there were still people styling it out in bed. Well done!

Outside was freezing, If it was like this at 8:00 what was it like at 6:00. Initially, the route was all in the shade, I only used one stick, so the other hand could go in my pocket. I just followed my map “line” from the albergue, it just followed a goat track crashing through the undergrowth. It eventually popped out, on what I presume was the proper route. I was just behind the guy who had been in the bunk opposite and he’d left 15 minutes before me.

It was a really nice route today. All gradually descending through hilly farm land. There were a few really stiff climbs. One of the worst (best?) was at about 10km, when I was beginning to feel the lack of breakfast. However at the top of the climb was the first open cafe on the route, he was doing a really brisk trade. I had a massive slice of tortilla, and a few snacks for an emergency lunch.

There were more people out today, which I think is a sign of things to come as more people join. My target tonight is Sarria, which marks a point 100km from Santiago de Compostela. Anyone who completes at least 100km can claim a “compostela”, which I think is a certificate – I’ll let you know in a day or two (or four).

There are certainly more people carrying very light day packs, and therefore availing themselves of the luggage transport services. I think you just leave you luggage with a tag to say were to delivery it, with the money tucked in the label. If only I’d known haha. That said, today wasn’t easy, luggage or not.

I’m beginning to understand the Camino, again it’s a bit like cycle touring, as nobody knows where you started, could have been the last town, or Burgess Hill. Unless you have a conversation nobody knows, or cares. The difference is, everyone knows where you are going!

I had a good few Camino chats today, with people from (in alphabetical order) Australia, Austria, Colombia, China, Denmark, Germany, Japan and Netherlands. I’m going to work on the other half of the alphabet tomorrow – there must be some Zimbabweans. The lady from Denmark was having a particularly tough time, she had been the victim of bed bugs in one albergue, and the next night her booking was refused. She managed to find somewhere, but by the sounds of it, all stuff was drenched in some dreadful chemical, while she was left naked (I feel there was some dramatic licence here,  I can’t imaging any hotel insisting on this to a 60 year old woman on check in). Anyway, she certainly been through things. I explained the Municipal Alberges with disposable sheets and (in last night’s case) no blankets. The snoring issue came up! She’d booked an accomodation in Sarria with a washing machine to get herself sorted. However, she had got the day wrong and still had one night until the booking. She was looking at Booking.com (which I have been using) and was showing no availability  in Sarria. I said the campsite I was heading for had bungalows, but her iPhone was saying it was over 20km and 5hrs something to walk. It wasn’t it was 11km and 2 hrs if you put your foot down. There were quite a few Albergues on the way, she set off, I hope with a renewed optimism. Although, I have a feeling she may need to change (lower) her standards. She’d also lost one flip flop off her pack so only had one shoe – it wasn’t going well at all. I passed her as she was photographing a field of horses, so I’m pretty sure I helped. It’s similar to other stories you hear, but you just have to keep on, keeping on, or quit. Those are the choices.

With regard to Booking.com, when I used to use it, before I became a completely laid back, free spirit of the Camino, trusting in fate (yes it was the day before yesterday it happened). It certainly trys to generate demand. I’ve stayed in numerous places where it says only one left (on booking.com), but when you get there, all the rooms are empty.

I stopped in Triacastela for lunch. There were a few fancy restaurants, but I’ve found that the smaller bars offer great sandwiches.  Really simple ham in a massive chunk of bread, but enough for half now, and half later. Walking these distances, it’s all about eating and drinking a little but often. Especially drinking, I never pass a water point without a conversation with myself on how much water I have, and whether I know where the next tap is. If I don’t know, fill up.

Anyway, I reached the campsite,  it’s nice, got a bar and most importantly, a washing machine all for €10 (and no bed bugs). The first thing I did was scope out the washing machine, but by the time I’d returned a German campervan person had put four pieces of laundry into the machine, so I had to wait for 40 mins. Its a pretty expensive way to was a towel, two tee shirts and some underwear. One wash is €4 and the drier €3, but she didn’t dry the towel! Crazy! I should have definitely been prioritised as I had a good half load. Anyway, it all got done, between showering and a beer at the bar.