Leon to Hospital de Órbigo 33 km

This is going to be a strange(r) one!

Had a good night’s sleep, its a big old squeaky place, which means you can make a good guess as to when the toilet is free, rather than the embarrassment of a abortive trip. Even at 8:00 I was the first to have breakfast, or at least the first to switch the coffee perculator on, and get some toast going. Trying to be quiet with boots and a rucsac, down the old staircase was difficult, but everything seemed so quiet.

Out on the streets, a few people commuting in hats and scarfs as it was pretty chilly. I trended towards the Camino and it was soon pretty evident when I reached it with lots of pelegrinos, on foot and bicycle heading in one direction. It was right outside the magnificent looking Convento de San Marcos, which is now a Parador Hotel (sister to the Fuente Dé one, had I known, I could have started collecting points!).

It was a bit strange, all these hikers heading out of town, with commuters coming the other way. They must see it everyday, new pilgrims heading into the unknown, while they head to regular jobs. I wonder how many have just turned around and started walking in the opposite direction. I was planning on 30km to Hospital de Órbigo, initally to camp, but I realised I had my days mixed up and the site is only open Fri-Sun, and today is Thursday. So last night I had booked an albergue dormitory for €14. I took a break after about 6.5 km. Mainly for the first proper coffee of the day, and as chance would have it, a massive chunk of cake. I’m still in two minds as to whether this is a good or bad thing, but when I see it it’s a good thing. I have to remind myself that I used to be happy with the flattest cheese sandwiches known to man.

Once I got out of the Leon environs the route settled down to walking along tracks next to relatively busy roads. There was an alternative route shown, but it looked to be over 5km more which was too big a risk on a 30+ km day. So I stuck to the proper route.

I could write about the endless track, with occasional town, just passing and repassing the same people (no one speaking english) but it’s pretty boring. However, on another level, this is where it all starts getting a bit strange.

Remember, before I describe the “occurance”. I was walking for over six hours in reasonable heat. Strava shows that I made three stops, and that on one section, I walked at a pretty constant speed for 13km continously.  There was a lot of road noise, but I have found from doing yoga in a noisy gym, that this improves my concentration. So what could 13 km of this do…

I became totally focused on the present, I couldn’t remember anything other than walking. The more I thought about it, it seemed like I had always been walking. I genuinely found it difficult to remember things before walking, just snippits. It was a very strange experience that went on for quite a while. I think it was some passing cyclists that jolted me from it. I think I might have been in a meditative state. I must investigate this further! Any thoughts gratefully received.

I was heading for Hospital de Órbigo, where I had booked an Albergue. It is a real nice place, but I passed other Albergues advertising cheaper beds/rooms, with a bar and one I saw had a swimming pool. If only I hadn’t booked ahead. I must get braver! Perhaps I can harness my new skills.

The town of Hospital de Órbigo, is the most interesting I’d been though all day. There is a huge flood plain and bridge, next to the river. I think if it floods high enough to use the dry arches, quite a few buildings are going to be underwater.

Apparently, the big green area and structures are used for jousting tournaments. In 1434, if you wanted to cross the bridge on the Camino (Road of St James) some guy (haha) challenged everyone to a joust. He sounds a real laugh.

In other news of the day, the anti Castilla black paint painter has an opponent. I’ve named “marker pen person”. The marker pen person is reinstating the “Castilla y”. They still have a lot to do, but it is a harder job than just quickly splodging black paint. However, it seems that the black paint painter is now splodging out the marker pen as well, which is being reinstated again. This battle could really escalate! I can’t see anything about this discontentment, the administrive body was set up in 1983. Suspiciously, a primary city has not been named!

The Albergue is nice and really well decorated, and they seem to be very understanding. However it’s lights out/doors locked at 10, and checkout by 8:00! They’ve offered breakfast which I accepted when they said the 7:30 finish could be stretched to 8:00.

PS I was perfectly OK after taking the coldest medicine I could 😀