Boca de Huérgano to Cistierna 45 km

Once again had a very good night’s sleep. Even though I’m still over 1,000 metres, it’s incredibly warm. I slept with the window open (with my washing hanging out of it). It is getting harder to get up in the morning, but as breakfasts never start until 8:00 it’s at least a reasonable target, and i like to be fashionable late. I think this, pretty big, hotel has three guests based on how many tables were set for breakfast. I had a lonely breakfast, the traditional orange, orange and marmalade (with options of cold meat and a cake). I was on the road before 9:00.

When I say road, I mean road. The first 20km today was all road, skirting huge lakes (reservoirs), crossing bridges and walking through tunnels. There were one or two brief excursions into the countryside, but they were brief. Luckily, there is hardly any traffic. Cars were occasional, some times 15 minutes with no traffic. The scenery was great, but walking on the road between the armco and the white line is not too enjoyable.

When I left the hotel, it looked quite promising when a Ruta Vadiniense sign sent me into fields rather than onto the road as I was expecting. However the path went straight into the Reservoir. The map supported this, so whether the levels were high. I had to cut across some fields to get back onto the road.

While walking on the road you do get a close up look at some of the Infrastructure, and I wasn’t too happy walking across some of the bridges, never mind with cars and lorries. Whilst walking along the roads, the poles marking the road edge in snow are all in place, indicating the type of weather that might be expected. I’d convinced my self that they are left all year around, when a couple of snow ploughs went past, so maybe not!

There were a few nice towns and villages on the way, that reminded you that you were on the Camino, which was nice. After 20km, I got to the dam across the gorge  (I don’t think all the lakes are joined up so there wasn’t necessarily 20km of water behind this one).

The route changed into 100% off road. It was glorious. Walking across green grass with daisy’s, historic old roads, climbing rocky crags. The path followed the river (and road) and from the signage this is the “Camino Real” and is an old roman path.

There were plenty of water fountains, some potable, some not, and others that weren’t stated but must be ok.

Just before Cistierna there was a lot of evidence of its industrial heritage, mining I think. The final few miles were along disused rail tracks and through derelict buildings.

I’d decided to walk a long day today, mainly as I knew of a campsite, and camping options will diminish when I hit the main Camino Francés. I got to the campsite at 18:50, and the office shut at 18:30. Even worse news was that I’d chosen it as it had a Pizza Resturant, that was only open Friday to Sunday. Not Monday. Anyway, after 40km I lay around in the evening sun, and eventually decided to pitch my tarp. I tried in the triangle tent style, but the wind was just too strong and the pegs not holding well in the hard ground. After about an hour of buffeting, I repitched in a stronger shape. Its standing up well, it’s just not so private (but much more of an experience.

It’s about a 10 minute walk to the nearest restaurant, but I decided to eat what food I have tonight and treat myself to breakfast in the morning. There are three supermarkets so I can fully restock. Another thing about today was, it was incredibly solitary. I didn’t see anyone (not in a car) until about 5pm, When I made this very old guy, sat on a bench carving his walking stick,  jump out of his skin when I croaked “Ola”. I’d completely lost my voice. As I got nearer the town, I started testing it on everyone. There were about 10 old ladies sitting on some benches. I whispered “Ola” and they nearly blew me over when they all responded loudly in unison. Perhaps my ears have become over sensitive to!

PS – Poetry lovers, there were lots of poems set on stands, by benches on the really nice section. It would have been nice to read them in the location.  Alas, poor Google translate, there was no mobile signal. I’ve translated one, if others are good I’ll put them here- so come back.