Potes to Fuenta De 32 km

After a really good dinner in the campsite restaurant, I retired to my tent to watch The Apprentice – the interviews. Unfortunately, I kept falling asleep and waking myself up with a phone in the face. I gave up on that, but knew I had to do Duolingo, I was too tired, lost all my hearts, couldn’t finish it, and probably lost my “streak.” Anyway, I slept well, I’m beginning to really like the bivvy bag. Got up about 7:30 and had a slow pack up. The campsite shop didn’t open until 8:30, and I knew I needed to take supplies. A packet of Potes biscuits, some chocolate biscuits, and a bag of almond nuts. That should do it. I walked up to the Monastery, it seemed easier in the cooler air. It was deserted. It was the right choice to go last night. The door was shut!

I walked along to a viewing point, with a canterlevered platform and selfie point. I was the only one there, until this figure strides up. It was Carlos, from the Cades albergue. He had walked up yesterday and was staying in the monastery albergue. He was too late to see the church last night, but had a private tour (from the albergue) this morning. He was staying for a mass, then heading back to Madrid. He’s done a lot of Caminos, and said that the Cicera to Potes was the best day he’d done. I’d agree, but only have limited knowledge. We said our good byes, and I headed on the Camino Vadiniense.

It was a really nice walk, along farm tracks and forestry trails. There were hardly any roads and actually when they came they were a big relief, they were smooth, generally heading in the right direction and with sensible gradients. Unlike the rest of route. I’m being unfair, the tracks were great, but they climbed much higher than the road and contoured around the valleys increasing the distance considerably.

I saw a few other walkers, which isn’t surprising given that I am deep inside the Picos de Europa National Park. I passed lots of streams and magnificent water falls. Time had forgotten some of the villages I passed through with so many old buildings.

My planning on water supplies was paying off, it was a very hot day and I refilled a number of times. Even so, I did run out and fill up from a mountain stream. I’m sure I’ll be fine! The other thing I noticed was the wildlife, lots of different butterflies, lizards scattering as I walked, and even a snake. I’m sure there was bigger things not too far away based on the loud rustleling in the bushes. There are bears and wolves in these parts. Which brings me to my most alarming moment. I was walking through the forest and could hear cow bells getting closer. It was strange, as it must mean the farm fields extending right up to these high levels. Suddenly a big flock of goats scattered in front of me, followed by a big old dog barking at me. Oops. I backed off a bit, still facing up the dog, and the goats all regrouped and luckily there was a space off the track for them to go. I then had to get passed the dog, she followed me for a long way barking all the time. Her dedication to protecting the goats was amazing. After that I saw sheep in fields with 2 or 3 dogs with the flock.

I reached Espinama and took a big detour to refill my water. There is accomodation here, but I chose to push on to Fuente Dé where I knew (thought I knew!) there is a campsite. It was really hard last few kilometres, an over 30km day with nearly 1500 m of climbing. Therefore, you can imaging how pleased I was to see the campsite closed and locked. I was outraged! I checked the Website, and there is a huge Camping Cerrado across the page. How did I miss this in my details planning.

I did consider a wild camp, then remembered the bears and snakes, but there did seem to be a hotel near the Fuente Dé cable car station (one of the reasons for a slight diversion, but I was slightly too late). In fact there were two, and some others slightly further away. I check online, and the nearest one was the poshest, but only €15 more than next. So a completely knackered hiker checks into fancy hotel. I do have to keep reminding myself that this is a holiday, and an epic day’s walking like today needs to be rewarded. I had a bath before dinner, it was so good to soak my aching calves that have been feeling progressively tighter.

It was also a good chance to look at my forward plans. I’ve found a bit of a block on the next section with no accomodation (as it’s a Saturday in a tourist area). Don’t worry I have a plan, that may involve a day off!

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