Cades to Cicera 17km

In my planning, I was unsure about this leg. I had Cades to Potes planned at 35km, with a note to omit the stop in Cicera. Around the dinner table last night there was a sharp intake of breath when everyone heard this plan, saying it was 42 km not 35, and there were no services. Earlier in the evening, when I met the girl on the phone who named me Mati. Her advice was, have cash as cards are not accepted in the mountains, and get supplies in Cicera as there is nothing afterwards. This left me undecided on what to do today, so I did like what I always do – delayed making a decision.

The morning in the albergue was equally chaotic, with the big group upstairs, and our room downstairs with 9 normal pelegrinos (although we were 7 with the midnight departure). I think the big group were self catering, while we had our breakfast left (marked with our nanes). Some people rushed off, others were in no rush. Carlos has his next albergue booked, only 12km up the road, in Lafuente. It wouldn’t open until 5, so had lots of time for his washing to dry. I got away by 8:30, just ahead of the group, all equipped with yellow tabards (or gilet jeaune). It was along the road, so was wise, but also kept me moving fast as any glimpse of yellow behind spurred me on.

While it was on roads, they were very quiet and climbed steadily. At 10km I had broken all previous records at 1hr 51 minutes (I have RUN 10k as slow as 1 hr 20 mins so I was flying). By 12km I reached Lafuente, where I had decided to make a decision on tonight’s accomodation. If it was 28km, all like the last bit, I could get to Potes easily. The only other alternative was Cicera, just another 5km. There was an albergue there, and I had been advised to book it, and thinking of Carlos stopping at Lafuenta made me think it might be full already. I got on Booking.com and snagged my self a private room with balcony (perfect for clothes drying!).

It was a wise decision, as soon as I left Lafuente the roads kicked up. First a few hairpins and then onto impossibility steep farm tracks. The views were great, but progress had slowed somewhat.

The track popped out onto a slightly more major road, where there was a lot of cow activity going on. There was a big coral at the top of the hill and clearly the vets were on attendance. As I left the road to carry on the Camino, another herd, with bells clattering, were coming down he road ready for their appointment with the vet.

A final stoney track led down to Cicera, hidden in the bottom of the Valley. It’s a tiny quiet village, walked past my accommodation (I needed to wait a few hours until 4 to check in) and found the only bar in town. I caught up with a group of five spainards walking, we had been passing and repassing each other, they wanted to stop but couldn’t find anywhere to stay. Looks like I have made a perfect decision again! They had a good lunch and were in high spirits as they headed of at 3 pm, hoping that the next town in 12km would have what they needed. They were highly confident, either due to the couple of beers they’d had, or that one of them was a priest! Either way they said they felt blessed, and the priest under pressure to deliver!

I had to while away a few hours until the hotel opened, It was tough but drinking a couple of beers, and pretty funny when I ended back at the bar, asking for Grego, the guy who had been serving me beer and bringing free food (lunch leftovers) all afternoon. The hotel was shut, so I whatsapped them, to get the instruction to find Grego. I expect he knew who I was but had no way of telling me. The room was above the bar, so a perfect place to have a sleep before dinner. Last nights snoring was catching up with me.

One thing I haven’t said, is about the Camino Lebaningo and the caminos in general. I started on the Camino del Norte (The Northern or Coast Way). This was a roman road, that became a Christian route to Santiago when the Moors in southern spain made travel on the Camino Frances (The French Way) too dangerous. I should get to the Camino Frances in 10 days or so. The Camino Lebaningo takes pilgrims from the coast to the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liebana. The monastery contains the largest piece of the crucifixion cross (from the left arm). I’m sort of thinking that I will see a splinter, but I’ll let you know. The other thing is that it’s the holy year for the monastery, there was a countdown timer in Santander which was showing only 10 days left. The door of forgiveness is opened for holy year, I should catch it. Otherwise, I will have to wait for another 100 years! Wikipedia is very interesting. The door first opened in 1512, so, by my calculation, has only been open for 9 years in 900 years, and Jean Michel Jarre played the opening ceremony.

Dinner in the bar, and with no English spoken, Grego knows what’s best and has brought out the obscure spirits. Oh dear!