Day 02 Findon to Gumber Bothy 26km

Had a great night’s sleep in Findon, the takeaway bottle of Newcastle Brown from the pub might have helped. Straight across the road was Dee Dee’s for a perfect bacon and egg sandwich, a coffee and a big slab of flapjack for my pocket. A quick stop for cash at the post office (I realised I had none – risky in the countryside!) and I headed off on The Monarchs Way. It was 9:45, which is probably a bit later than I would have liked, especially with rain forecast later, but was much better than the 12:15 if yesterday.

The Monarchs Trail really is a great path (mud excepted), going pretty straight cross country but still taking in a variety of landscapes. I found out that it is 625 miles long so I’m only scratching the surface with the 2 days I’m walking it.

I felt good, but clearly slower than yesterday which isn’t a surprise. The route headed towards Arundel, initially on a path high above Long Furlong – or the A280, a cut through from the A27 to A24 that I’ve driven hundreds of time. It was nice to have a different view on the road, when you are driving you certainly feel the space in the valley.

Arundel was my first (and only) stop of the day. It got progressively muddier as I got closer to the River Arun, but it turned out only to be a taster for the afternoon. The view of Arundel Castle and Cathedral as you cross the flood plain (and railway) are great. I plopped myself down in the middle of the town to decide what I needed to do. I needed lunch, dinner (to cook) and, most importantly a stamp for my Pilgrim Passport. The Co-op sorted out my first two requirements and I headed up the hill with a shopping bag towards the cathedral. I passed the Town Hall, and thought about asking there but decided on the cathedral first.

The cathedral is a magnificent building, the front particularly, but it is hard to get a good view of the best bit. I rearranged my shopping into my rucsac and pockets to look a bit more professional and headed in for my first “religious” stamp. In the cathedral shop, everyone was very helpful, and we had a good chat – everyone I have spoken to is aware of the Camino Santiago and are interested. I came away with a nice stamp, a film recommendation and that I need to be clearer about wanting a “rubber stamp” and not stamps! If I can’t manage in English, I won’t stand a chance in Spain.

I headed off across the incredible green rolling valleys and hills from Arundel. I have walked in this area before, it has a “park land” feel to it, and the shapes of the valleys are really unique. I soon ended up on another muddy path by the Arun. It was exhausting slip sliding along, even with two sticks for balance. I’d managed to drink most of the water I’d refilled earlier so was feeling thirsty. Luckily the path headed up from the river to The George & Dragon pub, where King Charles II stopped for an ale on his escape from England. I think he must have travelled later in the week than me, as I went thirsty as the pub is closed on Monday and Tuesdays.

My luck still held as there was a food kiosk not too far away, and a coffee, can of coke, a ,flapjack, and a water refill restored me. The last section had been a big loop, from high on a hill down to the river heading north, then climbing up and heading south, without ever crossing the river. It was hard work and seemed pointless, but looking at the map, there are no alternative footpaths. It would have been simple to take a short cut, but would have been right in front of a mini (or maybe pretend) Castle, overlooking acres and acres of their land.

The final stretch was pretty straight, through Hougton Woods and then the, very straight, Stane Street Roman Road. At this stage it started raining, initially quite gentle but then to a point where I had to break out my most recent purchase. My hiking poncho with ruscac hump! It took a bit of wriggling and throwing behind my head, but I got the pack covered. It works well. I trudged onto Gumber Bothy and Campsite, which is a remote farm over a mile away from roads/parking. I’d spoken to them earlier with a view to camping, but the rain was such I took up the offer of a Bothy bed. It’s a great place, on a National Trust farm with really good facilities – really modern showers etc, and a well equipped kitchen. Had a chat with a few people, one guy heading east on the South Downs Way and a group of school kids getting some outdoor training. I also got the second recommendation of the day to watch the Martin Sheen film about the Camino.

After a nice tortellini and pesto dinner (I did have a salad, which must have fallen off my rucsac enroute  – I apologise for littering on the trail) it was time for an early night (no internet!). I was really pleased that I had brought my good sleeping bag – I needed it.