Ahh the last day! The weather forecast was so good I decided to pack my coat and wear my Down Jacket. I shunned the hotel breakfast and went in search of the 7:55 bus to Patrington, and as chance would have it a Greggs bacon roll and coffee. Hull really does have a great integrated transport hub with the railway and bus station all under one roof. There are over 40 bus platforms, all under cover, and you walk straight onto the bus. It’s very similar to the Helsinki Kampi, but not quite so big or multi level underground!

I could have finished yesterday as doing this little bit of the walk north of the Humber breaks the flow. However, when discussing this walk, I found out my Dad did his national service in Patrington. He was a schoolboy during the war and was evacuated from London to various places. After the war National Service was introduced (or rather conscription extended). He was sent to the east coast to listen out for enemy planes (presumably the Russians by this stage). He hasn’t been too forthcoming with details, but they stayed on a barracks in Hull and were bused out to Patrington. This was in a bus with only small slits for windows, but he could see lots of churches. His main memory is around working one day on, and one day off. On the “off” day, if they could hide around the barracks and avoid any chores being allocated, they could take the day off and go to play golf in Hornsea. Sounds like not much has changed for young adults! I guess we are lucky Russia didn’t attack on an “On” day! I’ll go and have a look and see if it brings back any memories. I’ve found some stuff on the Web which we both found it interesting. There is a tab with photos.

https://www.subbrit.org.uk/sites/patrington-gci-radar-station/

Back onto the walk. The bus took about an hour to Patrington (I didn’t see too many churches from the big, slightly steamed up, windows on the top deck of the 75 bus, but there were a few) and dropped me in the centre. It looks a really unspoilt village. One thing I had been meaning to mention is that I started this part if the walk on the Monday following Rememberance Sunday, and as such seen some really well decorated war memorials. Patrington was no exception.

My first task was to grab some lunch and was so pleased to find a really gem of a sandwich shop. Their Ham and Tomato on granary roll promised to be so much better than the cheese “sandwiches” I’ve been eating for the last three days. I sent my Dad some photos of the village, and he responded that they weren’t allowed in the village! Anyway, there was no sign of any radar dishes or (although there is a wartime bunker you can visit nearby). I didn’t walk to where his base was (Patrington Camp). As the article above says, it has all been enveloped into a holiday park, and nothing is really discernable. It’s been an interesting exploration into history and my dad’s past.

I walked down to the Meridian marker on the edge of town. There aren’t too many roads to the south, and I felt happy starting the route there, leaving a gap from Cleethorpes on the south bank of the Humber. The actual route online shows it taking a boat from Cleethorpes to Spurn Head. That would be brilliant if one existed! I suppose you are expected to blag a ride with a passing trawler.

OK, I’ll start walking now! It was on a fair amount of quiet lanes, and occasional footpath. I was expecting mud, so I got my gaiters on early as was to prove very wise. The main reason is, I’ll likely have 5 hours on the train home so I’d like to be as comfortable as possible (this proved to be not possible). One of the last GMT markers, pointed vaguely across a completely blank, squidgy field. This felt sort of apt.

As well as war memorials I had passed quite a few monuments to WW2 aircraft that had crashed on the way back from raids over Europe. If they were close enough to the path, I’d normally stop as they often have a story. On this leg, I came across this one for a Lancaster that was on a training flight and got surprised by an enemy fighter. The flight engineer survived, but the other six flight crew perished. The monument has the whole story, which sounds frightening and shambolic. It looks like it was new recruits in a terrible panic, it’s even worse when you consider the war finished two months later.

As I said a few days ago, my uncle Vic flew in Lancaster’s, he survived, became a college lecturer, and died a few years ago. I should find out more, but I do know he was involved in the missions to drop humanitarian aid on Holland at the end of the war. This was during the Dutch Famine when all food supplies were cut off by the Germans and 11,000 tonnes of food was dropped in less than two weeks.

https://www.nationalww2museum.org/war/articles/operation-manna-chowhound

Eventually, I reached the last footpath. Interestingly, the footpath had a new cofferdam blocking the way, which I walked around, and a digger clearing the ditch, which I ignored. Maybe I should have asked what was going on! Anyway, I carried on to the coast following the drainage channel and after about a kilometre, it seemed that the water levels were very high. I was walking on a barely dry strip between two water courses. One was the ditch, and the other was the path. The path had 2 or 3 inches of water on it. It just got wetter and wetter. I got to a point when I could see the sand dunes, and it dawned on me that the river was flowing inland and must have been blocked where the digger was. Anyway, after 300 miles, I wasn’t turning back now! So I strode out, using my trekking pole for the purpose I’d brought it (to test how deep water was) and went for it.

The water got to knee deep, my gaiters were useless, but I kept on going. It was quite unnerving as it could have been any depth, but it turned out OK. Soon, I was scrambling up the sand dunes and looking out to the North Sea. I must say it was quite an exhilarating way to finish, but it 8would have been no fun at all if it was on the first morning.

The Meridian passes through the coast slightly to the north of the footpath. I’d read that a marker was placed in 2000, and it dropped into the sea in 2005 as there is really serious costal erosion here. I walked along, not finding any indicator, until I thought I had gone far enough and sat down to eat a pretty amazing sandwich. It was a good time to reflect (and dry my trousers).

I still needed to walk to Withernsea to catch the bus back to Hull. This involved walking along the cliff tops (there was another way but it was boring roads). The cliffs are certainly eroding quickly, with fresh paths leading to gaps that have fallen away. It was a lovely walk in the sunshine (I don’t think I mentioned its been sunny and warm all day, in November!!).

Soon I was in Withernsea, and on the one and a half hour bus ride to Hull, then an hour on the train to Doncaster, another hour to Stevenage, then 30 minutes to St Pancras (don’t ask why I needed to change, its in the terms of the ticket) and finally an hour home. Despite getting pretty wet, my gaiters kept my trousers clean enough for the train.

This has been an excellent journey on so many levels.

Physically, I’m amazed how the body can just adapt to walking for five days straight (yes I get tired, but nothing a kebab can’t solve). Initally, the soles of my feet got sore, but by walking more, they get used to it. I think my little toes may take the longest to recover. I did use blister plasters to protect them for the last three days.

Logistically, I’ve really enjoyed doing this all on public transport. I did have to drive to Croydon and back once (60 miles) due to a train strike, but it was unavoidable at the time. Planning my accomodation looking at the topography and route to see what might be achievable in the dark.

Route Quality, I think most long distance footpaths follow a natural feature or historic route, and as such you know what to expect. As the GMT is an artificial construct, the route is so varied. The guys who developed it did really well in picking out so many interesting features. Because of that variation, I’m so glad I blogged about it on the day. It would be so easy to say it was just flat for days, but in reality there was variation in the flatness. Walking across London was great. Link to the guide below, but I must admit I didn’t buy or use the book, but know I missed a lot of things.

https://www.greenwichmeridiantrail.co.uk/about

Time, I was able to do this as I’ve semi retired, so taking a week to finish the last 150km was not a problem. I wouldn’t suggest to anyone to take a weeks holiday to do it, there are far better things to do when you are time poor, but if you have the time, there is nothing better.

Equipment, my biggest shout out goes to my trekking pole (just one is enough). I dont normally use it and nearly didn’t bring it on the last five days. In fact, on the first day it was on my pack the whole time, generally just knocking things off shelves in shops, or atrempting to blind fellow train passengers. When it comes into its own is when you are tired, have a heavy pack and on slippery ground. It saved me from so many slips and falls. In fact I only fell over once, on the first day, after having a wee in a bush, I put my foot down a rabbit hole! Only on the last path did I use it for its intended purpose of crossing deep water (from an experience the week before in Sussex when the footpaths were flooded). Also while on this weird subject, I found I naturally used my right hand and forced myself to become ambidextrous. You need to be able to pass puddles on both sides.

Water and Supplies Planning, this is essential. I survived with a one litre water bottle and refilled it from shops when required. On two occasions, I was desperate for water and chance encounters allowed a refill, so carrying more water may have been wise, but its very heavy. Also, knowing which shops are open and where. My most disappointing stop was when I bought a Ginsters pasty at one shop, only to find a lovely sandwich shop 50 metres further along the street.

Other things – I really enjoyed night hiking and especially my enforced bivouac. It really takes you out of your comfort zone. Also I did all the hiking during mid-week and often didn’t see anyone for hours. I really enjoyed that, and its something I discovered from my remote cycling. The solitude was similar to cycling in Finland or Iceland (except on a road, someone would pass eventually, I’m not sure when the next walker would pass). Finally, I over prepared and, as such, had quite a heavy pack. That said I had everything I needed (and more, for example I didn’t need either of the two pairs of gloves I carried), but would have been OK in very bad (rain/cold) weather. I was expecting it to be terrible!

So the final facts and figures…

14 days walking – 504km (Ave 36 km/day) [313 miles – 22 miles/day]

15 train journeys – from £4.55 to £53.70 (with railcard). 7 bus journeys- all £2 a bargain, had to drive 2 journeys. Then 6 overnights (pubs, b&b’s, Airbnb and hotels) average about £50 / night. One missed booked hotel – doh!!, and one night sleeping in a bush – Priceless!!!!

Thanks for reading.