The bike survived the night in the carpark and was still there, with its parking tag. In celebration, I splashed out on the breakfast buffet, and made sure I got my money’s worth, rather than messing around with a fully loaded bike later.

I reloaded the bike, one thing worth mentioning – is that I have a massive cheap holdall (mine is spots direct, but other brands are available, often in a fetching tartan), which is really useful when you need to carry all the luggage in one go. With careful packing I can get everything in mine (vital to fly home, but dead handy in hotels). I headed off with the good sense of direction I gained from walking last night – but ended cycling out of the city on a really nice cycleway the wrong way. Realising my mistake, I had to turn around and get past Berliner Tor which is a multi level, road, railway, pedestrian intersection – but with no clear route for bikes. Soon got back to the station, in plenty of time to check out the platform and find the lift etc.

I was happily waiting for the super train to whisk me to Denmark in 5 hours, had just enough Euros to visit the trains Bistro bar, when I noticed a tiny “Fait Aus” in the corner of the sign. Googling didn’t find anything (but I now know it’s shorthand for we apologise). A check of my DB app showed all stops cancelled as far as the border – help. Got into a very quick queue (unlike yesterday), and the lady confirmed it was cancelled, said it might be tricky with a bike, and printed me of a number of choices on the regional trains – and I think most importantly an official note that my train had been cancelled (and I’m sure also said that anyone must avail the bearer with all possible assistance).

The first train was to Flensburg, up close to the Danish border (if anyone saw 1864 – there). A group of four cyclists joined, and although there wasn’t as much bike space as yesterday, we all fitted in. We arrived to schedule.

I had a couple of hours to see Flensburg, nice harbour, very old buildings and a bustling high street (and a hill which was good exercise). Was about to give in and have a subway, but the shop next door was a proper baker and I got a roll and a cake for under €3, bargain.

Back up to the station, and I was first in line for the Fredericia St train. Much smaller and no apparent cycle zone. After a while, the other 4 cyclist appeared – they were travelling from southern Germany to Copenhagen, with a plan to cycle back to Berlin – and were just as fed up as I was. Anyway the bikes all fitted in, but I had to take the panniers off, which is a major job to put them back on. Just settled down and a man with double bass got on, you couldn’t make it up! But he fitted in ok as well. Also an, initially friendly, drunk, who tried to jump out at every stop for a smoke, until the guard fronted up to him and tried to get passenger power to get him off the train… I won’t bore you with it, but the train was delayed while the police came, and we arrived at Fredericia late which I only had a quick change, the others headed off to Copenhagen and the conductor said their train had waited – a real palaver. I had the Aarhus train to myself (ie only one bike – luckily as more bikes would have meant people already sitting would have to stand). I got to Aarhus, exhausted, three hours later than planned (This should have been so easy – I bought the ticket in April, for an easy life). First impressions of Aarhus is of a very nice city, the station is amazing with a timber roof.

The other thing to note, is there is not a frictionless border between Germany and Denmark, Danish passport control check all documents, while soldiers stand at each open door!

The reason for coming to Aarhus was to visit the ARoS art gallery, which has an amazing Rainbow Panoramic Walkway on the rooftop. I wasn’t going to let all the troubles of the day spoil it, so I cycled over to the museum (initially down a big hill before realising the entrance was at the top). Two cycling observations, one cycle lane had a bike counter – in days over 3000 today, and in years – a really cool idea, and hills. I’ve not been up a hill in a week, but felt strong and stayed on the big chainring – although I’m not sure how long that will last!

The gallery was superb, and worth all the effort, a few photos but just visit…

T

ime was getting on so I headed north out of the city to Aarhus camping. Up some stiff hills (long), and I held off buying food until the last minute – and was rewarded with an Lidl.

The site was up another hill, and looks to be the best site so far – excellent facilities.