Got away by 9:00 and just kept following the signs. The route was much better than the previous day with practically no tracks. From Chalonnes-sur-Loire to Gennes it was all interesting roads with just the odd track to join them up.

Decided to stop earlier with croissants at Bouchmaine (where the Maine joins the Loire), and later at St-Gemmes-sur-Loire for food for lunch. Here I thought I was following the path when I found my self crossing a temporary carpark and into a fancy garden – I carried on regardless along a particularly nice avenue of trees, but I must have misread a sign. I noticed the couple, who I have been yo-yoing for the last two days, go past on a path on the other side of the river wall. I didn’t want to retrace my steps, but it turned out it was a massive hospital complex with only one exit (apart from the one I’d inadvertently found). Anyway it got me nearer the supermarket before lunchtime closing.

Pushing on and half looking for a picnic spot, lead to some fast trails along the top of the flood bank to Les-ponts-de-Ce, where “the couple” had taken the best shady bench. So I pushed on getting distracted when I had noticed a rather overgrown bridge, which needed visiting. After that it was pretty much on the top of the “levee” for many kilometers with no shade. A French guy coming the other way asked about any good shady spots for a picnic and I only had bad news – he told me it was at least 10km in my direction to!

It became nice and wooded after crossing over the bridge at St-Mathurin, but still no ideal picnic spots with obligatory bench. It was becoming more “winey” and chateauxs were appearing next to the river (castles or very big houses). At last Le Thoureil offered a bench in the shadow of one tree – not ideal but better than the unknown that lay ahead. I parked up for about 30 minutes and then “the couple” rocked up, they were French, took the remaining bench and fired up a gas stove to make tea.  At Gennes, a promised “Aire du velo” didn’t materialise, which was a problem as I was hoping for water. This wasn’t often a issue as I’d remembered from a cyclists forum, that there was always a tap at cemeteries. I had been using this to great effect and hadn’t been let down once until today. The cemetery I had tried was bare of cut (or potted) flowers, and all the graves adorned with stones or pictures which don’t require regular watering. I hope this isn’t a regional thing! I had a choice of route on either side of the river, and I decided (it turns out foolishly) to go into the north side where the path was straighter to Saumur. It was straight, boring and bumpy, on the low level right next to the river. It got worse near the bridges along side the main road, where there were only twin 30cm wide tarmac “tyre tracks” on the low level. At every junction a big climb was needed to haul up to the road level before plunging back down. It was bumpy and painful – top tip take the South Bank on this leg, or stick to the road.

I took the bridge to Saumur, it crosses an island (with campsite) but is really part of the town and well developed so I decided not to stay there after seeing it. There’s a big chateaux on the top of the hill in Saumur, and just behind it is the Super-U supermarket. I checked the map at great length for other supermarkets, but there was no choice to climb the hill up to the Chateaux. Provisions were obtained and I pushed on. The plan was to go to the next good looking campsite, or Chinon which ever came first. The route went right up into the vineyards, with some good views and a big descent into Montsoreau.  There was a good looking campsite, so I stopped. The campsite raised the bar again, with the cyclists camping around the “cyclists centre”, which has benches, fridges, power sockets and even beds – really good for €14! I’m becoming obsessed! I was going to write about my tent in high ventilation mode but that will have to wait for a day when nothing happens!