2016 Day 03 Lairg to Inverness (69 miles)

Must have been tired as I didn’t wake until very late. By the time had my porridge and coffee, then packed away it had gone 10.

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Rejoined the “main” road, which after a mile became wide enough for two cars (well at least a car and a bike), which was nice after many miles of roads with passing places. The majority of other drivers were brilliant treating you as an equal, stopping when it was easiest for them. Especially those who patiently waited while I slogged up a hill. A few would just come as fast as they could expecting me to pull off the side of the road – not really a big problem – just inconsiderate. The wider roads just stopped that lottery. Into Lairg found the first shop for miles and I stocked up on lunch provisions.

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Bought some “butteries”, a seeming local flat bread proving there are anthropological links across the North Sea being very similar to the Norwegian “reindeer” bread, from last year’s tour. Clearly the link was broken many millennia ago as the norwegian version makes a far superior sandwich (the same can be said for the cheese – Orkney Cheddar! didn’t travel too well compared to Jarlsberg).

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Well, back on the road, more idealic lanes, especially between Lairg and Bonar Bridge which included a stop at the Shin Falls.

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I am having fears that the south might not be as nice and I shouldn’t leave here.

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The route joined the A9 for about 2 miles – a nice wide shoulder but very noisy with big trucks. I deviated from my route to go into Tain for lunch (or rather eat my lunch), a lot of fish and chip shops feeding the visitors to the local distillery.
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Couldn’t find anywhere nice to sit, so headed out of town which was uphill – so ended up on a grass bank in a residential road, trying to make flatbread sandwiches, before the hill.

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The quiet roads continued rolling along the side of the Loch. The A9 was below, which crossed the Loch on a long causeway, and the cycle route continued into Dingwall (been in the news recently as an Australian family have been threatened with deportation, it sounded like the backend of nowhere on the news – but it has a Lidl). I wanted to stop for a coffee, but the Courtyard cafe next to the Lidl car park didn’t appeal!
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The route rounded the end of the Loch and on a cycle path alongside a busy road, up what turned out to be the hardest climb of the day. It soon turned onto quiet roads but seemed to continually climb. Eventually got to the top for an easy run into Inverness (or rather North Keswick).
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My route took me right down to the quayside which was great, except for a big climb (push) up a small path back to bridge level. There were really fast currents running out of Loch Ness to the sea, but no sign of anyone actively looking for Nessie, so it’s pretty clear why sightings are sporadic! Found the campsite in Inverness, it’s located in the sports area of the town – looks like really good facilities including a Curling rink. The site was very busy, with lots of German camper vans (all seeming sitting along a table about 50 ft long!). The good news was the backpackers area was super quiet – with tables and very good value for £10. I cooked dinner, and had a chat to a German girl who had cycled from Harwich, all along the east coast had got to the highlands. She had similar concerns that I’d had earlier in the day – the the route in front might not be as nice as that behind. We were able to address each of our fears. She was aiming to cycle the whole british coastline – impressive (and towing a trailer).
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