The train arrived at Kolari around 10 am, the weather was fine and didn’t look like rain. I unloaded my bike from the train, but it needed a complete repack as its imposable to attach the panniers without taking everything off the rack. This needed to be done with nowhere to lean the bike (this will become a continuing frustration) and takes some skill. There were three other bikes on the train, one looked like a regular commuter and the other two belonged to a couple all dressed in black waterproofs (they knew something I didn’t) and carrying big rucksacks, they said they were heading for Norway!
I had a plan to cycle into Kolari and then make a short detour to cross into Sweden (only to claim my 32nd country visited). After leaviing the station I took the cycle path on the main 21 road and straight away came across my first reindeer. It came towards me along the path and then trotting across the road after being disturbed by a kid cycling in the other direction. I took the 943 road, towards the border past shops selling souvenirs and other border related industry – petrol, alcohol etc. It quickly started raining and I wasn’t really geared up for rain. Having spent the past few days with various friends in Helsinki and after the overnight train all my gear was in the wrong places, I wasn’t even wearing cycling shorts, as it would have meant a complete unpack to find them. The best I could do was unzipped the legs of my (best and only) trousers, put on my yellow waterproof coat (I was wearing a luminous waistcoat otherwise). I turned around and headed back to the supermarket near the station. Claiming Sweden for a five minute visit would of been cheating anyway, but it wasn’t a good start! I got to the K-Market just before the rain got too heavy, parked up and bought my lunch. Finnish rye bread (thin brown “rolls” that are already cut), a packet of sliced cheese, cherry tomatoes, a Tupla chocolate bar and a variety of fruit. This would become my staple lunchtime diet. As I left the shop the heavens opened with a torrential rainstorm that lasted 15 minutes while I stood under the canopy watching.
I waited until it was just drizzling and I saw the black waterproofed couple make a start from another hiding place, heading north on the main 21 road. I started heading up the 80 towards Kittilia. It was still drizzling as I got underway, on a very quiet road and what traffic there was gave me plenty of room. The landscape was reasonably open farmland and the road was rolling with no serious hills. After about 25 km the “Good Mood Cafe” was advertised and despite being slightly drowned, I needed a coffee. I was expecting a transport cafe, instead it was a tiny “crafty” place full of local souvenirs and I refueled on cinnamon rolls and a coffee for €3 which was good value. I left without leaving too many puddles on the floor and the concerns of the ladies behind the counter. When I stood up she noticed my shorts and I got lots of comments about the cold weather. The cafe was on the junction of the 80 and the 9331 roads, the 80 from this point was a new road and I think the 9331 was the old road (based on very old maps – I’ve been planning on coming here for decades!). I had decided to take the old road if the traffic was bad, but as it was very light I stayed on the 80 which would be more direct and possibly a better surface. After about 40 km the rain stopped, the sun came out and I started to dry. The landscape became slightly wooded but continued rolling to Kittila.
The route passed close to a skiing area but the roads remained pleasantly rolling with no serious hills and reindeer became a regular occurrence. The reindeer seem oblivious to cars and lorries as they go past and don’t even bat an eyelid. But when a bicycle comes along, they start running along the road in front until they find a suitable exit off the road. I did cycle for a few hundred meters just behind a group of about ten deer with their strange waggling trot.
One noticeable problem was the lack of places to lean a loaded bike. All the pillars and posts of any substance were located away from the road, presumably to allow snowploughs to clear the road without hitting each sign. I did find a road sign (with a big fake bell on it?) for a feeding stop, and my foam mat square proved useful to sit on.
This was also the first time I noticed mosquitos, not too bad, but enough to give my first spray of Smidge (a slightly kinder, Deet free spray – I also had the nasty one in my arsenal). I carried on to Kittilia and turned south on the 79 towards the campsite. As I passed another K-Market I stopped to pick up provisions for dinner and carried on to the campsite. Very friendly and only a handful of campers. There were cabins available but I declined on my first night out. There were two toilet blocks (but only two toilets in each – would think there could be a queue if the site was busy) and a very good kitchen. The showers were connected to the sauna (which was extra cost, and being warmed up for someone else) and were excellent. Did my first clothes wash and hoped they would dry overnight. The campsite reception were happy to charge my battery pack (which I couldn’t charge on the train). I cooked dinner on my trangia (I’m not sure why with a well equipped kitchen provided) and slept like a log. I had no problems with the 24 hour daylight which was much lighter than Helsinki.
matt's travel & cycling blog 